Excerpt from `Modern Photographic Processing` (Volume 1) by Grant Haist.
Borate Alkali's: "Borax,Na2B4O7.10H2O, is the common name for sodium tetraborate, an alkaline compound used in the preparation of low-contrast, fine-grain developers. Borax may be written (NaBO2)2.B2O3, which shows the boric anhydride that limits the alkalinity possible from borax.
Borax acts as a buffer; that is, it maintains a reservoir of alkali but delivers only small quantities of hydroxyl ions at any one time. The alkalinity is maintained relatively unchanged until all of the borax has been neutralised."
It was a typo Keith, I meant D76d, but there's D76h and a non Kodak hypothetical all in the mind D76H which Troop attributes to a discussion with Grant Haist.
Commercial D76 is probably somewhere between D76, D76d & D76h. D76h has increased Metol to increase the activity slightly.
D23 for film; F24 for fixer; Ansco 103 (Not a typo, it is one zero three) for paper.
John, Mount Vernon, Virginia USA
I`m still not sure of what Kodak do to make their D-76 as all the Kodak patents that I have read all point to the original formula. The increase in borax in the Ilford patent that you mention makes sense though, as that would also improve the buffering capacity as in the Adox Borax MQ developer.
Originally Posted by Ian Grant
What is the formula for Ansco 103 John?
Originally Posted by Anscojohn
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I acquired several scales (analog type) however, have not stocked any chemicals. My concern is lack of availability locally of product, especially color developers, etc. Also, the One Hour operations are rather careless with the negatives.
Unfortunately, as it turns out, the home brew formulas (color) may not be the best way to go. On the other hand, maybe it will end up being to only way.
As far as saving money, that would be nice but not my primary motive.
Note! Darkroom is not quite set up yet, hoping to be operational soon. Really miss it.
Agfa Ansco published two versions of Agfa 103, they revised the formula in 1941 reducing the Sulphite to 45g/litre (from 67.8), they recommended it as a -a-er deve36-er, rather than the previous use as a Universal film & paper developer.
It's very similar to ID-20 results would be comparable
Many years ago I decided that mixing chemistry it was a dangerous way to divert my attention away from actually taking photographs. I am easily side tracked and, since I know my own weakness, I avoided mixing my own. For a short while.
One day I ordered some paper and film from a 'certain supplier' - I won't say who because this was about 10 years ago and I know they have improved dramatically - and they mixed the order up and sent me a box of chemistry by mistake. Sulphite, Carbonate and Hydroquinone, mostly - but BIG quantities. I offered to return it but the value was much the same as the courier costs, so they said to keep it as compensation for the mix-up.
So, what to do with all this stuff? I bought some Metol and mixed a few simple developers - then got hooked...
It is very addictive. I've mixed gallons of DK-50, which is a great developer and pretty much unobtainable in the UK, ID-3 (Very soft, like D23), lots of various print developers. It is a great way to explore lots of developers, once you have the basic chemicals them you have about two dozen developer choices available at quite short notice, but it can keep you so busy you have no time left to take any pictures
Last edited by steven_e007; 07-29-2009 at 12:54 PM. Click to view previous post history.
I regularly mix and use...
D-76 (and variations on the theme), D-23 and ID-68 for films and D-72 for paper.
Lately, I like Konica SD-28 for films.
Everything I use is store bought, but I would not be adverse to trying it, if I had more space to store and use chemistry.
The additional thing I find interesting about this thread is that with one exception only, every person posting is either a subscriber or a moderator (Edit: or an advertiser) here on APUG.