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  1. #1
    Kingbobdole's Avatar
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    Developer comparisons

    Hi,
    I'm just getting back into the whole developing thing after a 10 year or so hiatus. I went to my not-so-local store and grabbed some Ilford Ilfosol 3 developer and some rapid fix. I'm shooting in some strange efke R100 127 size film through an old yashica 44.

    In the film box it says when using Ilford ID11 that the processing time is 8 minutes. It is about the same for the Ilfosol 3 I have? I tried the massive dev chart on digital truth, but it was no help.

    There is also an option for better "economy" to use a 1+14 mix. Should I use that or just stick to 1+9?

    Also, the rapid fixer... How long should I mix that in for?

    Thanks for the help!

  2. #2
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    The Massive Developing chart is too unreliable, go by manufacturers own data-sheets.

    Efke R100 is the same as EFKE/Adox 100 the designation R, Kb. Pl, just stand for R - Roll, Kb -(Kine) 35mm and PL 0 cut film.

    Ian

  3. #3
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    XTOL to get the finest grain in Tri-X and soon to start with Pyro Rollo for fine grain and keeping the highlights from being blown out.

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  4. #4

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    As Ian says, forget the Massive chart.
    Here's where to get the Ilford data sheets; http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/default.asp
    For reference the Kodak data is available here; http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...ml?pq-path=522
    Ilford doesn't show times for Efke however, so you might try starting off with the FP4 times.
    Different developer dilutions will produce slightly different results, which one is better is up to your taste. Unless you are processing quite a lot, the economy thing doesn't matter much, and for most developers it's better to use it up faster so that it doesn't go bad.
    The fixer should have recommended times on the bottle, otherwise look at the data sheets. The "normal" time for most films is double the time it takes to clear the film - that is double the time it takes to lose the "milky" appearance.

  5. #5
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    I would find an Ilford developing chart that lets you compare ID-11 times to Ilfosol times in general. Since there are published times for the film in D-76 (which is the same as ID-11), you should be able to make an educated guess by doing this. For instance, say that Ilfosol times are 20% longer than ID-11 on average. Try adding 20% to the 8 minutes. Yes, I made these numbers up, so don't use them!
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

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  6. #6
    Anscojohn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Grant View Post
    The Massive Developing chart is too unreliable, go by manufacturers own data-sheets.

    Efke R100 is the same as EFKE/Adox 100 the designation R, Kb. Pl, just stand for R - Roll, Kb -(Kine) 35mm and PL 0 cut film.

    Ian
    *******
    FWIW, I think the KB stands for Kleinbild--small format?
    John, Mount Vernon, Virginia USA

  7. #7
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    This is good advice. Any published developing times are 'recommended' times, because your film handling and Kodak's film handling is different. You don't use the same meter, technique, camera, lens, shutter, etc. Plus lighting conditions vary. So it's a place to start, which is why 2F/2F's advice works.

    Welcome back to film processing! I imagine you will have a lot of fun.

    Quote Originally Posted by 2F/2F View Post
    I would find an Ilford developing chart that lets you compare ID-11 times to Ilfosol times in general. Since there are published times for the film in D-76 (which is the same as ID-11), you should be able to make an educated guess by doing this. For instance, say that Ilfosol times are 20% longer than ID-11 on average. Try adding 20% to the 8 minutes. Yes, I made these numbers up, so don't use them!
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  8. #8
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Your right But the Germans sold Kine film cameras like the Kine-Exacta, and in the 30's they called 35mm cameras like Leica's & Contax's Miniature Format while small format meant 127/120 etc.

    You can tell I'm reading pre-WWII books

    Ian

  9. #9
    Kingbobdole's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the help guys! I'll hit up the data sheets and compare and then make a guess! They all seem to be with-in about a minute of each other anyhoo so it shouldn't be too hard.

  10. #10
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Enjoy!!

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

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