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  1. #21
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    For me, from out of the wash to either presented or stored:

    1. place print face first onto my bathroom mirror (after cleaning mirror with plain water)
    2. squeegee the back
    3. air dry wherever I can find room in the bathroom/laundry room. Sometimes this means tacking the prints into the already-battered drywall (only bit of drywall in the whole house, and proud of it...so proud of it that I fill it with holes to pin up my prints to dry ).
    4. flatten between mount boards in a dry mount press once dry
    5. observe print to see if it is worth any more work or if it needs to be re printed
    6. spot
    7. If a print is going to be matted, framed, hung, etc., I just dry mount it straight away and make an overmat to protect the print surface (usually with a gutter). If I am not sure what I'll be doing with them, I keep them loose in old paper boxes.

    P.S. This is assuming that I do not bleach or tone the print. If so, insert after number 5: perform other chemical processes as desired, then rewash and start the above list over from the top.
    Last edited by 2F/2F; 08-04-2009 at 01:06 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  2. #22
    Wade D's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius Glass View Post
    I use the sme dryer and I have never been able to face the print towards the ferrotype. How do you do that without the emulsion sticking to it?

    Steve
    A bit higher temp might be indicated if the prints stick when they are face to ferrotype. The prints should 'pop' off the dryer at the end of the cycle. I don't know about other surfaces but with F surface paper this should give you a good glossy.

  3. #23
    Nicholas Lindan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius Glass View Post
    I use the sme dryer and I have never been able to face the print towards the ferrotype [without sticking].
    The 'tin' has to be very, very clean - I scrub it with Windex and Bon Ami. It also has to be scratch and haze free. They used to sell ferrotype wax/polish to minimize sticking but I use Carnuba car wax instead. Pakosol (I don't know if they still make it, you can use dilute hexylene glycol instead) helps quite a bit with ferrotyping.

    There is all sorts of advice on temperature. I used to ferrotype prints in the old days at room temperature - just roll the print on the tin and prop it up against the wall, it would pop off when dry. Some folks like to have the tin so hot it sizzles when they plop the print on. I find medium-hot works fine.
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