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  1. #11
    Krzys's Avatar
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    So what pattern should I follow? How many tunes of the stick how often?

    I normally do 1 minute of inversions then 5 for 10 seconds every minute.

  2. #12
    DLM
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    In something I read, I think it was a document from Ilford about doing B&W film, they recommend something like sliding the tank forward 10 inches and back quickly, about a second there and back. I did that for a while, just do it same amount of times that you would have inverted, and it worked just fine.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Krzys View Post
    So what pattern should I follow? How many tunes of the stick how often?

    I normally do 1 minute of inversions then 5 for 10 seconds every minute.
    IIRC two or three rotations every 30 seconds.

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  4. #14
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    Some people don't want to invert their Paterson type tanks because they THINK they leak, but some people also don't realise that Paterson tanks need to be "burped". To "burp" a tank, while you lift up an edge of the closed lid, you press down on the centre of the lid, thereby expelling air or "burping" the tank.

    Also, from a physics point of view, think about inversion in comparison with twiddling. Twiddling gives a mainly two dimensional agitation pattern, whilst inversion gives a three dimensional agitation, especially if combined with a toroidal twist.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Caulfield View Post
    Some people don't want to invert their Paterson type tanks because they THINK they leak, but some people also don't realise that Paterson tanks need to be "burped". To "burp" a tank, while you lift up an edge of the closed lid, you press down on the centre of the lid, thereby expelling air or "burping" the tank.

    Also, from a physics point of view, think about inversion in comparison with twiddling. Twiddling gives a mainly two dimensional agitation pattern, whilst inversion gives a three dimensional agitation, especially if combined with a toroidal twist.
    May be true, however, I cannot tell the difference in looking at old negatives. I have used the the rotation stick, the inversion, and the rotary processor. So it does not matter, use what is appropriate to the tank you like to use. JMO
    Items for sale or trade at www.Camera35.com

  6. #16

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    I use the stick all the time with my smaller plastic tanks and it works just fine. Five or six complete and very vigorous back and forth motions for 5 seconds every 30 does the trick for me. But, as Ian Grant pointed out and as I've learned myself, this works well with the smaller tanks that hold only 2 35mm sized reels. I've tried it with a larger plastic tank holding 3 x 120 reels and development wasn't quite even. It takes a lot more force to get all that volume of developer moving.
    Frank Schifano

  7. #17
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    I should still whack the tank against the counter to dislodge any bubbles yes?

  8. #18

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    Lift and Lower

    Perhaps the method has been mentioned.
    Conducted in total darkness a rod is used
    to lift then lower a or a few reels.

    I've used lift and lower with sheet films
    when tank developing. Sheets are
    handled one at a time. Dan

  9. #19

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    My method of twirling: two twirls in one direction in 5 seconds, then the same in the opposite direction in the next 5 seconds. Each twirl is as much rotation as I can manage comfortably with my thumb and forefinger. I equate this with one inversion. My films have always been developed evenly when using this method. Tap the tank? Yes, I do that, but only during the first minute. And only gently.

  10. #20
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    Man, I was always under the impression that the spin agitation was the least preferred option. I use a plastic tank and invert. The only time when I get a leak is usually on the last inversion set as I probably have already started to slide the cap partially up.

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