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  1. #1
    Ka
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    While we're talking about Selenium.... I have never actually toned my own prints, and could you give me a short outline of how-to whatnots?

    And, has anyone used Fotospeed's Sepia Tone? It's supposed not to emit an odour.

    Thanks.
    ka

  2. #2

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    On selenium toning, I process my prints in the following manner beginning with development:

    Develop for 2-3 minutes
    Stop bath for 30 seconds
    First fix 4 min
    Second fix 4 min
    Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner (dil 1-9) for 3-4 min.
    Hypo Clear
    Wash for 1 hour
    Dry

    I found years ago that washing after last wash before toning brought on stains. When I come directly out of the last fix into the toner the problem is eliminated.

    Some recommend mixing selenium toner with hypo clearing agent. This wastes toner and is counterproductive, in my opinion, since KSRT has hypo as one of it's ingredients.

    I save the toner for reuse later and replenish this solution with KSRT as needed.

  3. #3
    ann
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    Be sure you have good ventilation.

    wear gloves

    have a second print handy to compare toning print to untoned.

    decided on dilution ratio ( the stornger the ratio the more color shift will occur) #

    soak print in water for a few minutes

    place in toner

    tone for completion , the black should get blacker , depending on the paper, the highlights will begin to shift.

    too short of time will not provide archival protection

    wash toned print . a few minutes for RC. longer for fiber.

    #type of paper is going to infuence color shift.

    For a more in-depth study review Tim Rudman's book
    or, Ilford has a very basic and good primer on toning at their website.

  4. #4
    blansky's Avatar
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    KA,

    Again different people will give you slightly different methods, some don't wash the print after the fix, they just go straight into the selenium.

    I use Kodak selenium toner. I have dilutions that I keep in a two different bottles. One is 1:9, and the other is 1:20.

    They are both reusable after toneing. Simply pour the solution back into the bottle and store it.

    Selenium toner changes the silver in the paper to silver selenuim (I believe) but what it does is make the print more archival since this new compound is more hardy than just the silver.

    Some papers will also react to the selenium by changing color. Warm tone papers react to change color better than ordinary papers. If you use say Ilford MG FB Warmtone, with a warm tone developer like Zonal Pro Warmtone developer and afterwards selenium tone you will get a rich warm tone. If you normal Ilford MG FB you will get very little color change. If you ILford MG FB Warmtone with say LDP 1:8 you will get a slightly purpleish warm print. There a many variation, depending on the paper and developer.

    My process is fix for five minutes in running water, Hypo clearing agent for 3 minutes, with agitation, selenium tone for about 5 minutes at 1:9 then wash again for five mintes, them 3 minutes hypoclearing agent then into the archival washer for about 1 1/2 hours. This is all with fiber paper.

    Also selenium is nasty stuff. Use gloves, and I cover the tray with a piece of plexiglas to keep the fumes down.


    Hope this helps.


    Michale McBlane

  5. #5
    Ka
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    Cheers to both of you. Donald, what is KSRT? or is it KRST (Kodak Selenium Rapid Toner)? or something else?

    I'll get Tim Rudman's book... I always wear gloves, and Selenium's rather nasty.

    This is fab!!!.... I can't wait to do this tomorrow.

    Ta,
    Ka

  6. #6
    ann
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    It is Kodak Selenium Rapid toner

    one other thingl
    THis can be used over and over again. the times will increase but this is not A ONE SHOT CHEMCIAL. when it finally begains to die, just leave it in a tray and put some old prints in the tray and let them sit for a few days until the selenium is really dead, then you can discard.

  7. #7
    Ka
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    Michael,
    Thank you for your advice as well.

    I use Agfa Multicontrast Classic, Ilford Warm-tone Fiber and Forte VC Fiber papers.

    I have been using just the one Non-hardening Rapid Fixer.... I suppose there's a more preferable alternative. When people speak of double fixing, are there two trays of the same or different solutions of fix?

    I appreciate the technical description. I find it fascinating, and I need to embark on some serious research. The knowledge of how will no longer satiate my curious-want to know why.

    I'm off to the Ilford site to read more.

    ka

  8. #8
    blansky's Avatar
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    Karen:

    KRST is Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner.

    I as well as a lot of people here use ILford Hypam Fixer.

    Using a two fixing system involves using two trays. You do half the time in the first (say 30-45 sec) then move to the next for the same amount of time.

    What this does is insures that your prints are not being fixed by depleted fixer. After the correct number of prints for the fixer's capacity has been fixed, you dump Fix 1 and mover Fix 2 to now be Fix1, and you mix a new batch for Fix 2.

    A big part of archival printing is to ensure that your fix has not gone beyond it's capacity. This ensures it.

    The Ilford warmtone fiber is nice paper and like I said if you just tone it about 1:9 for around 4-5 minutes you will get that eggplant color. If you use Zonal PRo warmtone developer and then selenium tone it is a nice warm brown.

    When you are doing this toning, keep careful notes on developer, paper, times, dilutions , as well as toner so if you find what you really like you can duplicate it.


    Michael

  9. #9
    Ka
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    Michael, as always, I thank you.

    ka

  10. #10

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    My process is this:

    Develop;
    Water stop bath;
    Alkaline fixer (Formulary TF-4);
    5 minute rinse;
    Selenium toner;
    15 minute wash.

    From what I've read, one of the chief causes of selenium staining is residual acidity from acid fixers (i.e. most rapid fixers). Certainly, since I've begun using TF-4, I've not had a stain. Plus, it eliminates the need for hypo clear.

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