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  1. #11
    Anscojohn's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=pgomena;859563]Actually, I found dinosaur urine makes a good stop bath.

    ********
    Too strong with EFKE films, though; pteradachtyl spit is best for EFKE.
    John, Mount Vernon, Virginia USA

  2. #12

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    About half the impact of rock-paper-sizzers.

  3. #13
    trexx's Avatar
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    The bubbles on the film form slowly. they form regardless of how full the tank is. If you rap right away the bubbles are too small to release. Time is needed to allow them to form, to be large enough to be dislodged by a sharp rap to the bottom.

    My technique is to fill, light tap, agitate 30 sec. let rest 15 sec and then a sharp rap to the bare counter. I base this on a test I did long ago. I used a plastic reel with a glass beaker with various films in room light. Most film/dev combinations do not produce troublesome air bubbles. But the bubbles do not form instantly.

    I found the best technique is to fill the tank and load the reels in the tank in the dark. The steps I use is load the reals as normal in the dark in an identical tank. Lights on, fill dev tank and get all ready. Lights out, open dry tank, move reels to dev, lid on, lights on. It's a PITA and I hardly ever do it but if you have a film that tends to have air bells it is a way to reduce them.
    D-76 is a standard developer, although not one I use.
    Ansel Adams - The Negative

  4. #14
    arigram's Avatar
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    If the tank has been naughty, you give it a good spanking.
    aristotelis grammatikakis
    www.arigram.gr
    Real photographs, created in camera, 100% organic,
    no digital additives and shit




  5. #15
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Not to strong I had a Paterson tank with 5 spirals spli tapping too hard

    I did experiment last year & posted the photos on APUG, tank filled with a spiral/film water etc and the air bubbles were quite clearly visible, I'd been having some problems, but the water here is quite variable from a reservoir much of the year and a borehole in long dry spell, with a much higher salt content. A drop of dilute wetting agent solved my problem, but too much makes things worse.

    Ian

  6. #16
    Rick A's Avatar
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    I prewash my film with plain water and about half the amount of photoflo as normal. I've never had a problem with trapped air bubbles. You can also use a product called LFN wetting agent directly in the developer. Its the only brand that claims compatability with most developers. All that said, a gentle rap or three about like clapping your hands should sufice.
    Rick

  7. #17
    Chazzy's Avatar
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    I confess that I rap my Jobo tank fairly hard. It looks fairly well constructed, so I haven't worried about cracking the tank. Maybe I should?
    Charles Hohenstein

  8. #18
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    My suggestion is take a dry tank with its spirals, fill with water, and observe the air bubbles, then see what is best to dislodge them. Tht's how I found my best way to eliminate them.

    Ian

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chazzy View Post
    I confess that I rap my Jobo tank fairly hard. It looks fairly well constructed, so I haven't worried about cracking the tank. Maybe I should?
    Nah, I don't think so. I also have a Jobo tank and it's made of a plastic that doesn't seem "brittle". Compared to it, a Paterson tank that I also have feels much more crack prone.

  10. #20
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Per Volquartz recommended that I buy a 5"x5" wood block cutting pad from an art store and give one or two sharp raps on that. I found that it does the job and cuts down on the noise too.

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

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