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Thread: Rodinal

  1. #21

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    Hi Matt.
    Rodinal 1:50 means 1 part Rodinal plus 50 parts water for the working solution.

    Yes! Rodinal is highly concentrated. A 1:100 dilution will give you slightly higher acutance than 1:50 (those big old Tri-X grains will be really sharp - -!) and a somewhat lower contrast index. I personally prefer TMAX 100 in 1:50 Rodinal and in Pyrocat-HD. The grain in both of your 4x5 films should be fine in Rodinal 1:50. You may want to try the Tri-X at the 1:25 dilution, as well.

    Some one will undoubtedly council you to dilute the Rodinal with a sodium sulfite solution. Sodium and potassium sulfite are silver solvents and will reduce grain edge sharpness and acutance. My personal opinion: If you want fine grain, use a fine grain film (like your TMax-100), don't sulfite the rodinal.

    fschifano gave you a good URL and good advice for time and temperature information.
    Tom Hoskinson
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  2. #22

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    Rodinal at 1:100 or 1:50 can also act as a "compensating" developer. At these high dilutions, the highlights (which require more developer) are going to exhaust locally, while the shadows (which require less developer) keep building. Then you agitate, and the whole little dance starts over.

    Although I've added a couple of other developers to the arsenal, I'll always keep some Rodinal around. It's cheap, it lasts forever, and with the right film, you'll get negs that grainy, yes, but are bitingly sharp.
    "If You Push Something Hard Enough, It Will fall over" - Fudd's First Law of Opposition

  3. #23
    127
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    R09 / rodinal ?

    I just pulled my second roll of film out of R09. and my initial reaction is that I'm VERY pleased. The first roll was a little low on contrast, but I up'ed the agitation and I really like the results. Put me down as another convert.

    I'm a little confused as to the practical differences between R09 aka AGFA rodinal, and standard/modern/neo rodinal.

    I found a quite hostile thread on photonet which gave the politcal history. To sumarise as I understand: AGFA was split during the war - the west german part kept the names [agfa, and rodinal], while the east got the technology, and chemistry - so (ex east german) Calbe R09 is "real"/"original" rodinal, or agfa rodinal, while what agfa sell is neo rodinal, or just plain rodinal. [ie agfa rodinal != rodinal made my agfa]

    While that's very interesting, it's not very helpfull if you want to dev films. Times for "rodinal" are pretty common for all sorts of films, while R09 times are a bit harder to come by. How do R09 results defer from neo-rodinal? Are there hints or advice anyone has reguarding R09 - I'm using if on Efke most of the time, but wonder how it performs on hp5 or other more modern films.

    thanks,

    Ian

  4. #24
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    Ian,
    Calbe has got a website. www.calbe-fotochemie.com though it sometimes doesn't work too well. If need be I might have some info for you.
    Hans
    Digital is best taken with a grain of silver.

  5. #25

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    A lively conversation about Rodinal, Rodinal variants and Rodinal's primary chemical component (P-Aminophenol) has been going on in another APUG thread:

    http://www.apug.org/forums/showthrea...9&page=2&pp=10
    Tom Hoskinson
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  6. #26

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    I have been working with HC110 because the concentrate "syrup" seems to last a long time. I work in small batches, mixing the correct ratio for my tank size. A large quantity of working solution would go bad on me.

    I am interested in using Rodinal too. What kind of shelf life does the unmixed Rodinal have once the bottle is opened?

    Thanks, this is a very good thread!

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by JHannon

    I am interested in using Rodinal too. What kind of shelf life does the unmixed Rodinal have once the bottle is opened?
    Very long is the answer, six months plus. I always fill the bottle with gas to expel the air as I think it helps.
    Regards Dave.

    An English Eye


  8. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by JHannon
    I have been working with HC110 because the concentrate "syrup" seems to last a long time. I work in small batches, mixing the correct ratio for my tank size. A large quantity of working solution would go bad on me.

    I am interested in using Rodinal too. What kind of shelf life does the unmixed Rodinal have once the bottle is opened?

    Thanks, this is a very good thread!
    I have a partially used bottle of Agfa Rodinal that is 2 years old, black as sin, and still working fine. Others have reported useful activity at even longer times.

    One of the secrets of HC110 shelf life (talk to Gadget (Patrick) Gainer on this subject) is the use of a glycol solvent for the developing reagents. Gainer is currently investigating variations on a mixture of p-aminophenol, isoascorbate, triethanolamine and propylene glycol. It should have a very long shelf life, indeed.
    Tom Hoskinson
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  9. #29

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    Thanks Tom and Dave, I will have to try it.

    There is a store near me (Hunts Photo) that stocks it for now. They have been shrinking the B/W development/paper stuff and adding rows and rows of camera bags instead! (I can't figure that out) I guess there is more money in the camera bags...

  10. #30

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    Agfa Copex

    I recently tried ordering Rodinal from Adorama but the sticker shock of $35 shipping was too much. Instead got it from Photographers Formulary. Been using it on Efke 100, J&C 200 with good results.

    I've seen some mention on net of Rodinal with Agfa Copex (Gigabit) film. Anybody have dilutions, time & temp info for that combination?
    van Huyck Photo
    "Progress is only a direction, and it's often the wrong direction"

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