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  1. #11
    c6h6o3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SadChild View Post
    Hello,

    Is it possible to achieve effect of wetplate collodion on an ordinal photo paper?
    What kind of wetplate process are you talking about? Albumen prints from wetplate glass negatives a la Julia Margaret Cameron? That should be pretty easily to duplicate on modern papers. I've made some portrait negatives on Ilford Pan F+ developed in ABC pyro which are nearly bulletproof. I printed them on a grade 1 paper and they look something like a wetplate picture to my eye.

    Ambrotypes? Tintypes? Not so easy to duplicate, although I would start with orthochromatic film if you can find any. Short of that Efke PL25 or PL50 (or whatever they're called now), the so-called "orthopanchromatic" films, might come close.
    Last edited by c6h6o3; 10-19-2009 at 09:46 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #12
    smieglitz's Avatar
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    Check into chromoskedasic pseudo-solarization. Playing around with thiocyanates and developers used in the process, I once got some results that fogged the paper to cream colors similar to those you could get in a tintype. You'd have to adjust things to get the fogging color effect in the highlights without the reversal, but I think it could be done at least in terms of color.

    However, nothing on paper will ever come close to the look of an emulsion on metal or glass as you'd find in wetplate. The surface imparts a distinct look to ambrotypes and tintypes.

  3. #13

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    For the print, hypo-alum toner may be the closest. The earlier points about the look of the photo are important, though. The early photos, such as wetplate, were made with materials that had little sensitivity beyond blue. They have a very special look, especially with portraits. You can imitate (but not duplicate) it with modern materials by using a blue (No. 47) filter or by scanning a color shot and using only the blue channel to make a black and white negative.

  4. #14

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    It's old thread but it just interested me. I am going to take some mountain landscapes and would like to go as close at possible to wet plate collodion image look. I will be shooting with 6x9 camera, using a few Protar VIIa lenses (I am not sure if RR lenses would be better choice?) with blue filters, and Adox CHS 25/50 and FP4+ films (developed in Adox APH09). Do you think it's good stuff to aim the goal, will apreciate any of your advice.

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