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  1. #11

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    I guess I didn't explain myself very well--

    I've been using Barry Thornton's 2 teaspoon method for years with no problems. What I was suggesting is that extending the time in bath A can give
    box speed and good shadow detail.

    My main film is APX 100---4 :30-5 min. in bath A(D-76 stock) For Tri-X, 3 :30-4 min. In bath A(D76 stock) Rollei ortho 25 2:30-3 min in (D-23).

    I don't use any of the metol only developers except with contrasty film like ortho 25 or maybe Plus-X in contrasty Light, ,other than that my A bath is replenished D-76.

    So, if I would be allowed to rephrase--- Using a(metol only) two bath developer ,with a 3 min. soak in bath A does not work with (most) modern films--(unless you drastically reduce box speed). -----at least that's the way it seems to be in my world.

    -Don

  2. #12
    juan's Avatar
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    Somewhat different, I've been using Farber's divided developer that's usually called divided D-76, although I don't like that description as it is not really D-76. It's a metol/hydroquinone/borax developer.

    I'm using it for 35mm (Tri-X and old Forte 400) and have found that extending time in both solutions to 5 minutes, and reducing the ASA to 200, it works very well. I'm street shooting, so I am not so concerned about shadows. In fact, I meter and expose for Zone VI.
    juan

  3. #13

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    Donmck, Do you add the Sodium Carb to the Borax?

  4. #14

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    Carter john-

    No,I use either 2 tsp.of borax for bath B--OR ,,--If I think I need more contrast I use 2 tsp. of sodium carb.

    -Don

  5. #15

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    Thank you, Donmck, I will give it a try. I use with TMY-2 (200), Rodinal 1+50 A bath for 75% of my normal time and normal agitation, then I let the B bath, of approximately, 2 tsp. per liter of borax stand for 3 minutes.

  6. #16
    Harry Lime's Avatar
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    Question:

    Does Divided D76 produce the same speed results as normal D76?
    I assume that D76 delivers full speed or very close to it (TX400 = 400asa)

    thanks
    Last edited by Harry Lime; 11-11-2009 at 01:35 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #17
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    Re: divided D-76 - I haven't performed any serious tests on this developer, so I can't say whether they are the same speed results as D76. I simply use it for street photography outdoors where shadows are not that important. In fact, I don't use a meter - just Sunny 16. I'm shooting old Forte 400 at 200 and get adequate speed for my purposes.
    juan

  8. #18
    Harry Lime's Avatar
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    I don't know.

    I also shoot street photography and shadow / highlight detail is important to me...
    :-)

    That's one of the main reasons why I use divided developers. That and simplicity and consistency.
    Last edited by Harry Lime; 11-11-2009 at 06:24 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Harry Lime View Post
    I don't know.

    I also shoot street photography and shadow / highlight detail is important to me...
    :-)

    That's one of the biggest reasons why I use divided developers. That and simplicity and consistency.
    I don't shoot street much, but when I do I want shadow/highlight detail like Harry Lime does. All other shots I want S/H too. That is why I use the 'Two Bath' developing technique.

  10. #20

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    Vestal's Divided D76

    I have used David Vestal's divided D76 as described in "Darkroom Cookbook" with good results for street photography. As above, the contrasts can be extreme and this seemed to tame the excesses a bit without much loss of film speed. However, I didn't do any formalized testing.

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