Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 69,952   Posts: 1,522,728   Online: 888
      
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 27
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    965
    Images
    58
    Well, I asked about macophot up100 (ekfe R100) on XTOL, and got all the answers I needed.

    For those who didn't read the other thread, I'm going back to NE Brazil to continue a project, but want to avoid the horrible experience I had with a lab over there, so I'll stick with a big lab which uses XTOL. Or at least it did, 1 1/2- 2 years ago if my memory serves me right.

    But being a college student with too much time on my hands (today I only wrote 2 essays!) I keep wondering what if?

    What if i get there and that lab is out of business?

    I want to have a contingency plan, and Diafine seems like a good way to develop an absurd amount of film in my home darkroom (which can handle printing just fine, but hasn't seen film yet). Most importantly, with a 2 bath developer, it's hard to screw up.

    I know that if I have to fall back on this, I should shoot my tri-x at +-1200, but what about the Maco/Efke 100? I would guess 200, but does anyone have 1st hand experience?

    Sorry to keep bugging you about this, but I'm a what-iffer, and lose sleep over things more trivial than this.

    Thanks,

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    1,641
    I've used Diafine for almost all my film processing; and have been using Efke 100 in both 4X5 & 2X3. Supposedly does push the film a stop or so resulting in denser, possibly contrastier, negative. I've had the same gallon of Diafine for well over a year now & it just keeps on going & going. Great stuff.
    van Huyck Photo
    "Progress is only a direction, and it's often the wrong direction"

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    965
    Images
    58
    Thanks for the response... At least now I have a back-up plan. Which leaves me to consider how to avoid getting all my film x-rayed.

    damn this non-stoping brain!!!

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    1,641
    Forgot to mention an additional choice for ease of development. I've switched to Photographers Formulary's TF-4 fixer. In combination with Diafine, you don't need a stop bath other than water and no hypo-clear bath. Sure makes film development an easy process.
    van Huyck Photo
    "Progress is only a direction, and it's often the wrong direction"

  5. #5

    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Valley Stream, NY
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,216
    You'll probably be better off in this case with TF-4 fixer. An acid stop bath is emphatically NOT recommended when using Diafine, so an alkaline fixer should work just fine.
    Frank Schifano

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    965
    Images
    58
    yeah, I've thought about tf-4 for my film... How quickly does it exhaust compared to conventional fixers? (I could probably find that out, but I'm too lazy)

    Thanks for the tips, I've been seriously considering bringing my Macophot film to be developed at home regardless of which labs i find there (no labs in Brazil will know how to handle eastern european film)

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    965
    Images
    58
    ok, I ansered my own question (well, I looked it up)
    1L of Tf-4 fixes 20 rolls of film...

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    965
    Images
    58
    I received the Diafine package today, and I noticed that on the box they recommend against a pre-wash. Since the Macophot film I use has a lot of anti-halation dye, I have always pre-washed it.

    Does anyone know why a pre-wash with Diafine is harmful? I suspect that the water introduced by the pre-wash would slowly dilute solution A; but I'm not sure. Even so, how much damage would be done (think around 100 rolls of film)?

    As always, thanks in advance for the responses

  9. #9
    glbeas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Roswell, Ga. USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,307
    Images
    109
    Just going on the theory and not experience I would say a prewash would prevent the emulsion from absorbing the maximum amount of part A thereby causing a loss of contrast.
    This could be handy if controllable if you have a contrasty film you want to tame.
    Gary Beasley

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    965
    Images
    58
    That would make sense. But without a pre-wash I would very quickly be using purple Diafine...

    Well, hopefully a funky color is the only drawback of not pre-washing Macophot UP 100.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin