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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by DanielStone View Post
    ........ I'm going down to the library tomorrow to check out their copy of the PHOTO LAB INDEX, which Michael recommends as a resource............
    Be careful of typographical errors in the Photo Lab Index. They were legendary!

  2. #22
    c6h6o3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanielStone View Post
    Right now for 4x5 I'm working off my last box of TMY-2
    Please bear in mind that it's very difficult to develop TMY by inspection because of the sensitization dye they put in it. Its magenta color is precisely complementary to the green safelight. I can't see anything at all when I try to DBI. I develop TMY by time and temperature, since I love the film so much.
    Jim

  3. #23

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    Dan sorry it has taken me so long, I've got enough 510 pyro to let you do 1/2 doz (or more) 1000ml tanks.

    Got it all boxed up, it'll go out Monday morning.

    Have fun, and how did you like Jay's website... help?

    Thanks

    Mike

  4. #24
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    It has been quite a while since Hutchings, among others, has recomended that the fixed and washed film NOT be returned to the used developer. It's effect is mostly to produce an overall stain which acts as a contrast reducing filter. Of course, if that is what you want, keep it up, but at least compare that process with simply reducing contrast (and possibly graininess) by shortening development a "tad".
    Gadget Gainer

  5. #25

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    Did your 510 pyro show up yet?

    Mike

  6. #26

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    Oct 2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loris Medici View Post
    Daniel, for a little more you can buy a kit which will make 100 liters of working solution... Don't bother in trying to mix yourself (I do so only because - being in the opposite part of the world - I can't order from PhotoFormulary w/o inhibiting shipment cost and PITA customs checks), just buy the ready made glycol versions. (= Long shelf life.)

    Regards,
    Loris.

    P.S. Transfer the solutions to amber glass bottles with quality caps - if you feel unsafe with the original plastic containers - and you'll be pretty set...

    P.S.2. If you intend to mix yourself mind that dry Pyrocatechol is pretty nasty, you can smell it as soon as you open the container; I really didn't like the experience...
    Yes...mix your pyro in a well ventilated area, and consider using a face mask and goggles just to be sure. The ease of using one of the Formulary products is probably well worth the cost until you decide which Pryo developer you chose to make your everyday "friend".

    Might I ask what developer and method your are using for your 4x5 film? You might be surprised to find that your current developer, when used for 8x10 contacts, produces results that are perfectly adequate without the need to use Pyro developers of any kind. Certainly the Lodima paper is great, and when used with Amidol, can produce wonderful prints. However, such results might be very close to those achievable with your current materials, or with any of the very excellent paper/developer combinations that are now available, and which are likely considerably less money.

    Just some suggestions. Not meaning to rain on your parade, or dampen your obvious enthusiasm.
    Is there anyone in your area who uses Pyro, and with whom you might spend an afternoon developing and contact printing?

  7. #27

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    I have been using Pyrocat MC with hangers for 5x7 and 8x10 sheet film with no problems - I do one lift per minute and have not had problems with surge marks. I use IR night vision goggles to develop by inspection and highly recommend this as an option to try. Using IR goggles has been discussed in posts on the largerformat forum - do a search there for more information if you are interested.

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