Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,289   Posts: 1,535,369   Online: 807
      
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 25
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    New Zealand
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,410
    Images
    4
    Hi all, I'm brand new to this site and I appologise if I'm covering old ground with my question. Does anyone selenium tone AGFA Classic MC111 for colour? I'm keen to increase the richness & 'depth' of a couple of images with Selenium but I can't seem to get any colour change. Have tried mixing recommended dilutions twice now and toning for up to 10 mins with no apparent change in colour. Usually fix twice and use Iford washaid and an archival print washer. Pls help!!?

  2. #2
    glbeas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Roswell, Ga. USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,307
    Images
    109
    Do you use hardener in the fix? I'm told it's not good for toning. Try putting the toning bath between the fixer baths and see what happens, going directly from the fix to the toner. Works for me, but I haven't ever used that paper.
    Some papers don't change much when selenium toned, sometimes you can get a color shift with a bleach, redevelop, then tone.
    Have you read Tim Rudmans book on toning yet?

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    New Zealand
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,410
    Images
    4
    Hi Glbeas, I had recently changed to Kodak Rapid fixer which I don't think has a hardener. I had heard that it was good to use the wash-aid to thoroughly remove fixer before toning, so I havn't tried taking print directly from fix to selenium yet.
    Had been working off Ansel A.'s methods in The Print but I'm starting to wonder if Dr. Tim Rudman's publication might be worth the investment ...
    I've heard great things about the wonders of Selenium toning, and I can't wait to see the results.

  4. #4
    Aggie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    So. Utah
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,925
    Images
    6
    As far as i know the kodak rapid fix has a hardener. I could be totally wrong. If you have washing soda ( laundry aid) available at your local grocery store, try a tablespoon full in a gallon of water. soak your prints for about 5 to 10 minutes. wash again and then try the toning. Eee if that helps at all.

  5. #5
    lee
    lee is offline
    lee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Fort Worth TX
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    2,913
    Images
    8
    Kodak's Rapid Fix has 2 parts. Part A is the fix and Part B is the hardener. You do not need the hardener to fix film or paper. If you mix part B and part A then you may have issues with toning for color. I routinely use part A for everything photographic.

    lee\c

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    New Zealand
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,410
    Images
    4
    Ah huh - thanks v much Aggie, I'll give it a go. Funny thing is AGAFA Veridon toner works fine on same materials/method (but I've noticed variable speeds of colour change). Perhaps it isn't affected by hardened fixer the same way....?
    Oh the joys of toning ....I have about 10 perfect 16x20's prints sitting on the coffee table, with colours ranging from Nestle milk-chocolate brown to strong tea in colour!!!

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Texas
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,576
    Images
    27
    John, just used some 111 recently and thought the same thing using selenium. I was trying the same print with Berger, Agfa and Seagull..the Seagul was very nice, Berger just did not do as much for me as the Ilford MG I've been using. The thing I noticed about Agfa, was that each print was toned for about 20 minutes (in selenium 1+ 3) and after about 12 to 15 minutes the Agfa started really showing up in the dark areas of the print, so wanting to get the max from it I left the print in the toner only to see it start to shift to a purple eggplant color. Not to my taste, so I pulled the print and completed the processing. Then placed it in some Veridon, and the print came out looking quite nice.

    I can say that Tim Rudman's book is well worth the money. Good luck and let us know how this works out. Have to say that from all I have read the Agfa paper is very nice. Just haven't had a chance to work with it any more.
    Mike C

    Rambles

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    New Zealand
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,410
    Images
    4
    Thanks Mike - great to hear from someone who has the same experience with MC111. Re AGFA Classic MC111, I rate it very highly. Gives excellent shadow detail when req'd and the glossy isn't toooo shiney; a feature I really like. The glossy 111 is all I use now, but still sitting on the fence about the matt version. It's quite thin for a FB.
    Well thanks all, gotta run, off to Amazon to check the delivery chgs on Tim Rudman (and his book) - New Zealand's a long way away you know!!!

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    135
    Images
    23
    John-- I use Agfa Classic glossy almost exclusively for fiber printing and selenium tone it at times specifically for the color shift. I use Kodak Selenium at 1:6. I tone prints after 10 min. wash, then 10 min. soak in Hypoclear, then 5 min. wash to avoid staining. The color shift (reddish-purple) takes a minimum of several minutes when the selenium is fresh and can take longer after being used. The trick for me is to be certain the color shift is complete throughout the print, otherwise the gray tones look sloppy (to my taste). I have read that temperature can affect the process significantly, as may the water you are using. I haven't gotten complete control over the variables and am still plagued by the whims of chemistry. At least I've eliminated staining. I haven't found a significant difference between hardened and unhardened fix in this regard, though I haven't paid close attention to the fix being used in the community darkrooms I use. Hope this helps.

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    New Zealand
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,410
    Images
    4
    Mark - very helpful. thank you. I shall try at 1:6. haven't tried distilled water yet. I know what you mean about inconsisted toning through the print, I try to keep it moving thoughout the toning time. and yes I tend to refer to use hypoclear or wash-aid as well. I will try new advice tonight and report back for those who are interested.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin