Ok, not exactly in order,
My Hassy won't work either, if the dark slide is in.
The "black crud" looked like a lot of black silt in the pre-soak water. The pre-soak water was entirely black at one point, but never clear.
The index numbers and the film type, maker, codes, ect are all on the two edges of the film as they should be. Nice and dark, too.
I took the back off and fired with the camera pointed at a light; both shutters front and rear fired as they should.
I just shot a roll of color film and put it in for commercial processing. I am awaiting the results with baited breath.
I could have done that with Ilford except that I am out, and my source is 75 miles away. The only 120 available here is Fuji color.
If you have edge markings, then it wasn't your emultion lifting off, or your developer bad. I believe it has to be a camera problem.
i mainly use Ilford films and my pre-soak water is ALWAYS very black when I pour it out (the antihalation dye as mentioned earlier). Are you saying that you have never had dark coloured pre-soak water before?
It is very odd that there is no image on the film - the emulsion must be intact as the numbers etc are developing ok - it sounds like the film isnt being exposed to any light.
If the edge markings are there, and apparently as they should be - the chemistry and time/temperature should have been somewhere near.
That leaves one major avenue (at the moment) that I can think of - *massive* under exposure.
You didn't change lenses and forget to reset the f/stop and shutter speed ...? I haven't done that myself .. not more than two or three hundred times or so...
Anyway... what were the circumstances surrounding the exposure of the film? Lighting? - Studio flash? ... and how did you determine exposure?
-Or ... maybe some sort of major shutter failure?
Ed Sukach, FFP.
Black crud is actually very dark green crud more than likely. It is the antihalation coating that Ilford uses rinsing off after presoak, a very normal and desirable thing to have happen.
If the frame numbers are dark and readable on the film, then somewhere:
a. exposure was lacking on the film
b. developer was exhausted, or overdiluted, or just plain not long enough
If the frame numbers are light on the film:
a. see "b" above
Do not question what you have not done, question what you will not try.
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If the developer was exhausted, then there would be no frame numbers.
Its gotta be shutter malfunction, or gross, no, make that GROSS underexposure.
BTW - I just read on one of the sites that Ilford incorporates a wetting agent into their anti-halation backing layer - engineering it so that it is rather narrowly intended for processing without a pre-wash. I can't see where a pre-wash would hurt a whole lot - there must me some concern about the anti-halation stuff migrating to the emulsion ... (?? wild speculation).
Anyway ... the "searcher" in me is waiting...
Ed Sukach, FFP.
Ok, first of all, thank y'all very much for the replies.
No, I have never seen the black stuff in the pre-soak because I have never used Ilford films before. I always used Kodak, mostly Tri-X and Vericolor type S and that was it. I never saw the black stuff with the Tri-X.
Both rolls of film were shot in daylight and shade. Shudder speeds were roughly 125-250 and f stops were 8-22. I did not log them. With 400 speed film, feel I should have got SOMETHING.
I used a new Kiev 88 TTL viewfinder on one roll and a Grossen Profisix on the other.
I just took the back off of the camera and ran it through all shutter speeds and f stops. The shutter speeds looked and "sounded" right. The aperture looked about right.
I will not be able to look at the comercialy processed Fuji until Friday, as there is no 1 hour process on Med. Format here.
Does anyone have any idea of other quick and dirty tests that I can run until then?
Sure sounds like underexposure.
Did you check the aperture control on your lens? Are the blades in the iris diaphragm moving freely and correctly?
Set the aperture to f16, then use the depth of field preview lever on the lens to watch the iris function, fire the shutter and wind it - does the iris open back up as it should?
How about the shutter speeds? Start out with the low speeds and move up.
Everything is analog - even digital :D
Off the wall, only other thing I can think of is to check the back and be sure it's working right. I had one once wind through the roll without stopping when it messed up.
I hope you didn't load the roll in wrong side out like my fiance did when she was learning to load her Bronica!