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  1. #41

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    fp4+ vs delta 100 vs PLUS-X 125 vs NEOPAN 100 ACROS

    Quote Originally Posted by RattyMouse View Post
    Expose Acros at ISO 3??? In god's name why?
    Maybe if it's 20 years old? Lol


    ~Stone

    The Important Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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  2. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by RattyMouse View Post
    Expose Acros at ISO 3??? In god's name why?
    Errors happen. Now I know that I should go ahead and develop the film instead of tossing.

  3. #43

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    never toss the film before you develop it. You might be surprised at what you get from it.
    - Bill Lynch

  4. #44
    grommi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RattyMouse View Post
    Expose Acros at ISO 3??? In god's name why?
    Not in gods name, in devils name :-D

  5. #45
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    I think this threat is very good.
    This should be very soothing information for people using rollfilm.
    As long as you expose for the shadows all the rest nearly falls in place. Of course this is a big generalisation but one in my opinion does not have to be overly concerned about all other factors to a reasonable extend.
    Just don't underexpose in my oppinion is the most important thing to say.
    Although I remember once photographing with acros 35mm film on a sunny day. I exposed the film with 40 iso developed it in Xtol I think it was, using a tripod and the results were extremly unsharp negatives. I presume because of light scattering within the emulsion.

  6. #46

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    Quote Originally Posted by grommi View Post
    The most advanced bw film probably is Acros 100, expose it from about EI 3 to EI 400 on a single roll of film and get great negs. Basically it works with many (not all!) bw and colour negative films with boxspeeds from 100 to 400. Look at the density curves from the data sheets and you will know what works and what doesn't. Acros is easy, FP4+ may be difficult.

    Best - Reinhold
    If this was an example of dry humour which it might be then fine but I suspect you are saying quite a lot here in a serious fashion but unfortunately not saying enough for me to understand fully. Could you expand on the above?

    Why is Acros the most advanced B&W film? Why start at EI 3?

    What works with b&w and colour neg films? Is this a reference to their dynamic range so that a film with a box speed of 100(Acros in this case) can be successfully exposed at 5 stops over and 2 stops under?

    Why is FP4+ difficult? Is this a reference to it's smaller dynamic range compared to Acros i.e. it can handle ?s stops of both under and overexposure?

    These are genuine questions on my part and not an attempt to try and take your post apart in an aggressive fashion

    Thanks

    pentaxuser

  7. #47
    Stephanie Brim's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndreasT View Post
    I think this threat is very good.
    This should be very soothing information for people using rollfilm.
    As long as you expose for the shadows all the rest nearly falls in place. Of course this is a big generalisation but one in my opinion does not have to be overly concerned about all other factors to a reasonable extend.
    Just don't underexpose in my oppinion is the most important thing to say.
    Although I remember once photographing with acros 35mm film on a sunny day. I exposed the film with 40 iso developed it in Xtol I think it was, using a tripod and the results were extremly unsharp negatives. I presume because of light scattering within the emulsion.
    The "expose for shadows, develop for highlights" philosophy is not new. Read "The Negative" by Ansel Adams.
    No idea what's going to happen next, but I'm hoping it involves being wrist deep in chemicals come the weekend.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephanie Brim View Post
    The "expose for shadows, develop for highlights" philosophy is not new. Read "The Negative" by Ansel Adams.
    Corollary - "don't underexpose or overdevelop film." That still pretty well sums it up.

    The reputation of t-grain films for requiring more precise exposure comes in part, I think, instead from their sensitivity to development changes. While this responsiveness is an advantage to the careful zone system worker with sheet film, it's a recipe for problems for those shooting roll film and giving full manufacturer recommended development times or "just a little more to be sure." "Just a little more to be sure" is fine for exposure most of the time. For development, erring on the side of less is better than erring on the side of more.

    If you really want excellent results over extreme ranges of exposure, shoot C41 - XP2 Super if you want black and white - and run it through standard C41. If Ilford made it in sheets I'd be sorely tempted to lay in C41 chems and stock up on it.

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