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  1. #1
    BetterSense's Avatar
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    Replenishing fixer

    I'm getting tired of mixing up new rapid fixer after I find out my old fixer died. Sometimes I even have to go back and re-fix the last roll just to have peace of mind about it. I'm starting to wonder, why can't I just add a certain number of mL of fresh concentrate to the bottle so that my fixer never goes bad at all? I use replenished developer and add 23 mL of replenisher every roll. Doing the same thing for fixer seems natural.
    f/22 and be there.

  2. #2
    MattKing's Avatar
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    Fixer gets "polluted" by silver.

    Replenishment doesn't remove the pollution.

    Matt

  3. #3
    tiberiustibz's Avatar
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    the replenisher in the C41 process essentially works by dumping out a small portion of fixer and replacing it with some fresh stuff every roll. Personally I use one of two methods. Method 1: use the fixer for one roll of film and dump it. Method 2: mix the fixer in a gallon jug. Use it once, and pour it into a one liter bottle. Use the stuff from the bottle and then dump it. Fixer is cheap. Pictures are worth a lot more.
    --Nicholas Andre

  4. #4
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Colour processes and RC B&W paper (or film) fixing can use replenishment systems for fixing because the silver content is far less critical for image permanence etc.

    Ilford have a section on replenishing Hypam in their data-sheet. However replenishment isn't recommended for fibre based papers.

    Ian

  5. #5

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    I have some old texts that discuss removing silver electrolytically and reusing the solution. Working out the details would take experimentation though, and probably risks image permanence. Seems easier to test the fix more often and mix fresh as needed.

  6. #6

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    Try the Ammonium or Sodium form One-Shot

    Quote Originally Posted by BetterSense View Post
    I'm getting tired of mixing up new rapid fixer after
    I find out my old fixer died.
    I use fresh fix each roll. When I was using a rapid fixer
    I added 20ml of the concentrate to the solution volume
    needed. As the fixer is quite dilute additional time is
    required. I found 10 minutes about right with
    a non-iodized film, Acros 120.

    I too had the liquid fixer going bad before finishing the
    bottle so switched to the solid sodium form. If you'd like
    to try the slower sodium form allow a little more time.
    16 grams of the anhydrous will do for most films. Life
    span of the sodium form may be generations.

    As one-shot dilute fixers are very little loaded with
    dissolved silver, washing can be expected to be
    more thorough. All things being equal. Dan

  7. #7

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    Dan's got a point there, but I also believe that for many people his methods are a little extreme. It's not the state of exhaustion that you should be worried about, but rather the concentration of fixing byproducts. When the concentration of these byproducts gets too high, it causes problems. These byproducts are very hard to remove in the final wash, and any left behind will have a deleterious effect on the image. Dan's method virtually guarantees that the absolute minimum amount of fixing byproducts are present to cause problems later on. If you replenish without discarding some portion of the working fixer, these byproducts will continue to build up to a concentration that is considered harmful. For quick and dirty prints for which you have no expectation of longevity, I suppose it doesn't matter. If you expect your work to last for more than a few years at best, replenishing fixer is not the way to go.
    Last edited by fschifano; 01-05-2010 at 07:21 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    Frank Schifano

  8. #8
    BetterSense's Avatar
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    For what it's worth, I wasn't thinking of prints. My film and print fixers are separate, and it's the film fixer that annoys me. I'm thinking of going to two-bath fixing for film, that way when fix 1 dies, I already have fix 2 ready and at least I don't have to mix up a new batch that instant.
    f/22 and be there.

  9. #9

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    Even so, there is an upper limit to the concentration of fixing byproducts that should be observed. The figure differs by the type of material being processed, and I'm sure someone on this forum has those figures handy.
    Frank Schifano

  10. #10
    Philippe-Georges's Avatar
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    Have a look in the attached document, I use the UNILEC works good on B&W FB paper and film too :
    Last edited by Philippe-Georges; 01-20-2010 at 12:52 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    "...If you can not stand the rustle of the leafs, then do not go in to the woods..."
    (freely translated quote by Guido Gezelle)

    PS: English is only my third language, please do forgive me my sloppy grammar...

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