Today I shot another Foma 100-120 film. I cleaned my tanks, renewed stop and fixer, used a different camera. Alas, result is the same: beautiful creamy negs but littered with small 'scratches' (see example in attachment).
Could it be that my films are from a poor batch? I hate to consider my work flow perfect and to jump to conclusions, but right now a production error is the only thing I think of.
Any Dutch APUG-er willing to try some of my films to see if they can manage better?
I have had the very same problems with Fomapan 100 in 35mm. It was terrible using Fomadon Excel, and got better when I used liquid developers.
I experienced the same thing with Adox CMS 20 the other day, and mixed up new fixer for the second film I developed. The film processed with fresh fixer was much better, but still had quite a few marks that took ages to clone out after scanning.
I too would be very interested to find a "cure", as marks like that drive me absolutely bonkers.
I never ever ever get these marks with Ilford and Kodak film, only with Foma, Efke and Adox.
If there is indeed some connection with a fine precipitate in the fixer than could it be connected with a cold storage temperature of the stock solution ? After all, it isn't hot in Holland or Norway at the moment ! If this was the case, then warming and thorough remixing might (depending on exactly what the precipitate is) redissolve it, or alternatively could it be filtered out ?
There might also be a correlation with 'old' emulsions versus newer designs too. Lots of ifs in this post. tomorrow I'll be using a fixer mixed from liquid on half a dozen rolls of Ilford and Hema film. I will watch what happens carefully as I have six rolls of assorted Foma to play with soon.
I use this with Xtol and use distilled water to mix the developer, distilled water for the stop bath (which I use over and over again), and distilled water for my fixer. My negs do not have those anomalies. I bought my film as Arista.EDU Ultra 100 from Freestyle in October of 2009.
You got advice to use distilled water by Ian Grant. Did you take that step?
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Originally Posted by Ian Grant
I use and love foma and this is the same problem I had. Clean up your water and it will go away.
Note: I am cheep. I use distilled water to make my chems, but I got a Britta filter and some jugs for working water (including pre-soak and wash). This was enough to make it work.
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Originally Posted by sandermarijn
I use fomapan100 in 8x10 format, never seen such scratches yet.
I can develop a film for you if you want.
No I didn't (blush on face). I used tap water with the developer, stop and fixer (all fresh from the manufacturer's bottles). Washing was also with tap water. Only the final rinse was done in distilled water, with a little wetting agent added.
Originally Posted by Thomas Bertilsson
Because the marks on the negs are along the negative I figured they would come to exist during the drying process, not during any of the previous steps, which have no 'vertical orientation bias'. But then, like Ian said, there may be small particles of iron in the tap water that react with my fixer and thus bleach the film before drying.
If the latter is true then it still seems odd that the marks have such a definite orientation along the film. That simply doesn't make sense.
I also had some pinholes with Adox/Efke 50 in 135. But nothing nearly as bad as what I am having with Foma 100 in 120. The Adox films show a very small pinhole in maybe every fifth frame, whereas *every* frame of the Foma film is littered with marks. The marks on the Foma are small lines along the length of the film, the Adox marks resemble pinholes.
Originally Posted by :Francis:
On another note, all baths (dev, stop, fix) that I (or rather my films) use, are made from liquid concentrates. These are stored not very warm in winter, around 12 deg C. It may indeed be good idea to warm the fixer solution before use in order to allow any crystal that may be present in the cold-stored concentrate to dissolve. It seems far-fetched but I will try this as well, besides using distilled water in in all steps.
I had the same problem, although the water I use is severely filtered!
The origin of these ‘scratches’ is mechanical, the so called pressure fog. It is due to the friction caused by rolling on the film after it was exposed, wether it be 120 roll or 35 mm film, or the film sliding over the film guiding rolls in the camera. It is typical for Foma, thus the camera is not to blame (what I thought before). The protective layer on the emulsion side is, to say at least, not one of the best.
There is an other issue that is typical for Fompan : when using plastic reels, to develop the film, there are scratches on both sides, along the film’s length, and on the image. Plastic reels are about double as large as the SS ones. A tanning developer tends to worsen that.
It is really painful to see your photo’s ruined like this!
I shoot Tri-X now and all the troubles went away…
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I am probably even cheaper than you are
Originally Posted by mrred
One litre of distilled water costs me 1 euro, which is quite expensive. I get the water at the local DIY store (Gamma) and know of no other source. I am willing to use this water for the dev, stop and fix steps, but not for all of the rinsing- simply too expensive. If the marks persist in such a semi-clean workflow then I will have to turn away from this film, which would be a huge pity, cause I like its look a lot.