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  1. #1
    bmac's Avatar
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    First Tmax Negs in Pyrocat OMG!

    I processed 6 TMAX 400 negatives in Pyrocat HD last night. I am totally blown away. I wll be printing them on Friday evening, but by just looking at them onthe light table, they are easily the best negatives I have ever processed / made.

    They were part of a film speed test that I will be completing tonight, but out of the 6 negatives, it looks like I could make a decent print out of any of them.

    Heck, I might just frame the negatives
    hi!

  2. #2

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    Brian,
    I'd be very interested in how they actually print. I've wanted to try tmax 400 for contact printing on AZO, but I'm happy enough with tri-x so as not to buy a 50 sheet box.

    I've just bought a roll of tmax 400 to try with Pyrocat, as a cheaper alternative.

    Take care,
    Tom

  3. #3
    bmac's Avatar
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    I'll post results once I print them. I tried Tmax 400 (TMY) on Clay's suggestion. Went for a box of 4x5 prior to shelling out the big bucks for a box of 8x10
    hi!

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Duffy
    Brian,
    I've wanted to try tmax 400 for contact printing on AZO, but I'm happy enough with tri-x so as not to buy a 50 sheet box.
    I've just bought a roll of tmax 400 to try with Pyrocat, as a cheaper alternative.

    Tom
    If your interest is in printing AZO (or any of the alternative processes for that matter), TMAX 400 is much superior to TRI-X for both expansion and contraction development when developed in Pyrocat-HD. I would not think of Tmax 400 a as a cheaper alternative to TRI-X, just a much better one.

    Sandy King

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    For a true cheaper alternative to TMAX 400, I highly recommend Fortepan/Classic 400. I have been using it exclusively the last 6 weeks (while awaiting my supply of Efke PL100 to be replinished) and it works extremely well with AZO.

  6. #6

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    Hi Sandy,
    No, I meant that I bought a single roll of tmax as a cheaper alternative to buying 50 sheets of 8x10.

    My two concerns about tmax are:
    1. It reputation as requiring precise development, tri-x is more forgiving if I don't get exposure/development quite right.
    2. tonal range - a subjective thing, will I like the tonal range of tmax in a finished print as much as I like tri-x?

    I'm going to start slowly with contacts of roll film, rather than buy a $150 dollar box of 8x10, only to find that I don't like it.
    take care,
    Tom

  7. #7

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    Tom, buy the 8x10, if you find you did not like it, I will take it off your hands for whatever sheets you have left. It is all I use and if you really want to appreciate what it can do with pyrocat there is no better way than a contact.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Francesco
    For a true cheaper alternative to TMAX 400, I highly recommend Fortepan/Classic 400. I have been using it exclusively the last 6 weeks (while awaiting my supply of Efke PL100 to be replinished) and it works extremely well with AZO.
    The Fortepan 400/JandC Classic film is a very good film for scenes of normal contrast but it has much less expansion potential with AZO than Tmax 400, at least in all of the developers I have tried (Pyrocat-HD, ABC Pyro, and one of Gainer's ascorbic acid/phenidone brews). However, it works pretty good for alternative printing with Pyrocat-HD as the stain allows you to build up a lot more contrast.

    Great budget film for either AZO and alternative processes for expansion and contraction is Efke PL 200, and available in ULF sizes as well.


    Sandy King

  9. #9

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    I have to agree with Sandy as regards Classic 400/Fortepan 400 and expansion capabilities. I too will not use the film for SBRs less than 7. It being an inherently low contrast film I have found it to be extremely useful in dealing with scenes of SBRs 7 to 10. Still, Efke PL100 is superior in all respects.

  10. #10
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    Trying to push the thread back on topic I'd like to add that TMY in Pyrocat is my favorite for situations where light is limited. For what it is worth I agree the negatives look simply gorgeous on the light table and are easy to print. It certainly has very good midtone-separation even if the light is rather dull, the low reciprocity fauilure can be a *big* advantage under such conditions.

    I haven't done much testing under bright light untill lately and haven't printed these negs yet. If TMY does nice under such conditons too it will become my standard in 120 as grain and sharpness are excellent at the enlargement factors I use (x6.5 beeing the max).

    Stefan

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