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Thread: Night shots

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    Night shots

    Any suggestions for a good film/developer combo for someone who likes taking city shots at night? the best I have done thus far is Tri-X in MicrodolX 1:3, which is "ok". I have some Acros for reciprocity reasons...I want to mitigate the star effect of the lights as much as I can...

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    glbeas's Avatar
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    You might try a compensating developer like D-23 or Diafine to keep the highlight densities from blowing out so bad. The star effect is going to be hard to get rid of, it's partly due to the lens too. A lens with more blades on the aperture tends to make a rounder hole and is less prone to the star.
    Gary Beasley

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    jd callow's Avatar
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    I have had my best luck with T-max iso100 in t-max-RS. T-max 100 has great reciprocity characteristics. I believe the stars are caused by the aperture blades of the lens. I like the contrast of nightshots which for me plays right into T-max's strengths. I should caution you, that I am not a big b&w shooter. I do shoot a lot at night and at dusk, but mostly with colour film.

    *

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    Actually I know the "stars" you are talking of, but I think that the word "stars" was the wrong wrok to use. I think what happens more often than not is local over-exposure from streetlights and the like. It is almost like flare, but isn't flare. I noticed that someone on contaxg.com shoots xp2+ and at night he doesn't get the effect. I was hoping to get something along those lines. I have tried Diafine and it was also "ok"; but not great.

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    Bruce Osgood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewH
    Any suggestions for a good film/developer combo for someone who likes taking city shots at night? the best I have done thus far is Tri-X in MicrodolX 1:3, which is "ok". I have some Acros for reciprocity reasons...I want to mitigate the star effect of the lights as much as I can...
    __________________________________________________ ____

    You might try this link:

    http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/moonlight.html

    There is a lot of info on night photography.

  6. #6
    Jorge Oliveira's Avatar
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    I use TX @1250 in Diafine. Nice combo.

    I had posted some photos in the old gallery, but with the new site they are gone.

    Jorge O
    Curitiba - nice place to live, if you don't care about the weather...

  7. #7

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    Try Nocturnes for a wealth of information on night photography. I've made very few successful night images, but I keep trying. Best times seem to be very early in morning - few people around.
    van Huyck Photo
    "Progress is only a direction, and it's often the wrong direction"

  8. #8

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    I have had good success with night shots using T-Max 100 developed in PMK. The negatives are fairly easy to print. I also found a lens hood to be very helpfull in preventing flare from stray light.

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    dr bob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewH
    Any suggestions for a good film/developer combo for someone who likes taking city shots at night? the best I have done thus far is Tri-X in MicrodolX 1:3, which is "ok". I have some Acros for reciprocity reasons...I want to mitigate the star effect of the lights as much as I can...
    I have done many night and low light photographs in the past - not so many lately. I used TRI-X or HP5+ developed in split D23 (or similar compensating) developer. The obvious problem is the high contrast usually encountered. The "star" effect can be unavoidable due to the specular quality of unfiltered light filaments of street lights, headlights, et c.

    Reciprocity can be a significant problem. My solution was to do a seat-of-the-pants estimate, multiply the time by up to 10 or just open the shutter and drink a soda(?). Hope this helps.
    I love the smell of fixer in the morning. It smells like...creativity!
    Truly, dr bob.

  10. #10
    Dave Swinnard's Avatar
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    I have had good luck with Acros and Perceptol 1+3. Good reciprocity characteristics, very nice handling of highlights (can"almost" read the text on some of the light bulbs in one scene!).

    35mm, dev. in Perceptol 1+3 for 13 min. at 23 degrees C. Agitation 5 sec. every minute after 30 sec. initial agitation. (no presoak).

    Dave

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