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  1. #11

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    I use Zone VI print developer (very near Dektol but improved support for shadows) on Oriental Seagull (graded and VC). This gives me a neutral print tone. I also use my formula for Pyro Plus Paper Developer which seems to also give a neutral tone with seemingly deeper blacks and improved tonal separation.

  2. #12

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    You wont go far wrong. I have used ilford bromophen, multigrade and tetenal eukobrom all with excellent results. IMHO all good quality devs produce good results and other elements of your technique (dev time vs exposure etc, contrast...) will have far more of a bearing on the scale of the print than the paper dev - colour is a differnt matter. Multigrade is very neutral, eukobrom a nice blue black. Oriental is my favourite neutral/cool paper! This paper tones very well in selenium for a cool blue/purple black. Picks up a lot of density fast so take care.

    Tom

  3. #13

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    I've used Dektol 1+2 and Ansco 130 (Photographers' Formulary 130) 1+2 with Seagull VC. I print mostly on Ilford MG IV FB. By comparison, I found Seagull VC to be about one grade softer than MGIV, i.e., negs that printed with a #2 filter on MGIV printed with a #3 filter with Seagull, and that max black was not quite as dark with MGIV.

    Chris

  4. #14

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    How's this for a radical idea...Dektol 1:2. It seems to work fine. The image first appears in 1 minute and is fully developed by 2.5 minutes. This is by way of contrast to Zonal Pro, which is very, very slow. It took me close to 2 minutes for the image to begin emerging and a total development time of over 3 minutes, closer to 4. Too slow for me.

    Gary

  5. #15

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    Tom...have you used a current crop of the Oriental paper. As I am mentioning in some other posts, I am presently NOT able to get it to tone toward purplish. I don;t really want my blacks to look eggplanty, but I do want that very slight hint of purple that comes when the selenium is working. I am not certain why I am not obtaining that result.

    Gary

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by david b
    I would do this:

    1.5 minutes in selectol soft and then 1.5 minutes in dektol.

    the selectol soft will just do the highlight first, and then the dektol will take care of the midtones and shadow detail.
    My question is why one would consider using this choice of two developers with a VC paper...this is a technique used many years ago with graded papers; the effect was to move "between grades"...hardly necessary or attractive in this time of variable contrast materials.

    I have used Seagull VCFB for years. I used graded materials before that. There are several single developers that will work very well with this paper. My personal choice has been Zone VI or Dektol for off the shelf developers...my Pyro Plus Paper Developer will work very nicely if one is into mixing their own concoction.

    I concur with Tom about the selenium toning effects of this paper..

  7. #17
    ann
    ann is offline

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    gary, i seem to remember on another thread that you were using a HCA with the selenium; if so, try water instead.

    Years ago using HCA was very common but with new testing , many have found it more productive to switch to water. ALso, are you using your mixture as a one shot toner. Current "wisdom" indicates that if one is using a HCA instead of water it should be used as a one shot process.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Grenell
    How's this for a radical idea...Dektol 1:2. It seems to work fine.
    Gary
    Hi Gary! Yeh, that "radical" photographer Ansel Adams also liked Dektol 1:2.
    (sad that so many people these days like to criticise his work). Kiku

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Grenell
    Tom...have you used a current crop of the Oriental paper. As I am mentioning in some other posts, I am presently NOT able to get it to tone toward purplish. I don;t really want my blacks to look eggplanty, but I do want that very slight hint of purple that comes when the selenium is working. I am not certain why I am not obtaining that result.

    Gary
    My papers are the regular G and VC FB papers (not the latest GF series graded). I have had no problems with a subtle shift towards a cool deep purple black but then again all my paper is at least 6 months old....maybe something changed? I have had no issues regardless of my slapdash approach to selenium concentration.

    Tom

  10. #20

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    I just recently started using VC papers (all FB). I'm still experimenting with Afga Classic, Ilford MC, Forte Polycontrast, Kodak Polymax Fine Art, and Oriental Seagull. I develop in Ansco 120 1+2 (with benzotriazole as restrainer) or D72 with KBr restrainer.

    My toning experiments in Sel 1:19 (to get a purple black hue) on A120 prints were disappointing. Only Forte PC toned at all, and that was more a "warming" of the image. Prints were left in the toner for 20 minutes at 70 deg F. I toned a Forte print printed in D72 in Sel 1:19... it quickly toned a distinct brown versus purple.

    I'm wondering what could explain why some can get a good hue shift with Sel while others don't. Should I be using a stronger dilution of Selenium (I use KRST by the way).

    Jim

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