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  1. #11

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    BTZS style three-piece tubes that facilitate easy loading and unloading of film, especially when using minimal agitation procedures.

    Francesco (www.cicoli.com)

  2. #12
    blansky's Avatar
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    Nov 2002
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    HP Combi-Plan tanks. Six 4x5 at a time. Works well for me the way David described.


    Michael McBlane

  3. #13
    fingel's Avatar
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    I also use the Jobo tank. I use the inversion method to develop six sheets at a time. It works great, and if you use a dilute developer like Rodinal 1:50 or so, it doesn't cost a lot to fill it up either.
    Scott Stadler

  4. #14

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    Sep 2003
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    I use a Nova handline or combitanks for 5x4. One combitank fills in 25 second, but the other takes nearly 50 seconds??!! With normal dev times of about 10 or 12 mins, I have never noticed uneven development and that includes using staining devs. Disconcerting as the slow fill times may be, I have had no issues there. The only prob was with the negs popping out of the grooves once in a while; which I solved. It was caused by the whole carrier not being laterally rigid (due to poor moulding accuracy) and the top clip which presses down on the film being too tight (so when the film got wet and soft, it bowed more and slipped out of the grooved under the pressure. I fixed this by using glue to fix the carrier perfectly straight and rigid and ensuring that only the minumum pressure is exerted by the top clip thingy. Since then 100% success, daylight convenience. The only prob with the slow fill being that when using tanning/staining dev the repeated rinses, reimmersion in dev etc all takes time.

  5. #15
    Stan. L-B's Avatar
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    Jun 2004
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    London & Friars Cliff Dorset UK
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    Hello All.
    If cost has to be the primary consideration for processing 5X4 colour or B&W, then any Patterson universal drum can be cheaply and easily converted to take up to four sheet of film without overlap. before I got into the JOBO system, I used the small Patterson universal drum to develop two sheet of 5X4 at a time which was very ecconimical and produced perfect results every time. It is done by discarding the reel, and making a 1/8" hole through the centre support. Then pass a stainless steel rod through the support so that it is a tight fit on the sides of the tank. The film is then kept under slight tention and away from the sides of the tank, even development is assured every time. So cheap - it's almost sinfull! Good luck Stan.
    Last edited by Stan. L-B; 06-08-2004 at 03:56 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  6. #16
    gma
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    I think all the difficulties some have encountered with the Yankee tank are due to OPERATOR errors. With reasonable care ( what else? ) anyone can achieve good results without purchasing professional equipment. For a novice I think the Yankee sheet film tank is a good value.

  7. #17

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    May 2003
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    Valley Stream, NY
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    Try the HP CombiPlan tank. Agitate by inversion.

  8. #18

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    Apr 2004
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    Inversion? I thought the tank will leak since it is not air tight. People say with that tank that it leaks. So how would inversion work?

  9. #19

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    Apr 2004
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    For now I am going to try and find some fabric to cover the window and door and go for tray processing once I end up getting a 4x5 camera. I think this will give better results as everyone is saying this is the way to do it.

    If I cannot get the room light tight then a Combi-Tank looks like answer.

    Thanks,

    Kev

  10. #20

    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Jasper, Tennessee
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    Have you taken a look at the slosher trays sold by summitek (www.summitek.com)and Photographer's Formulary(www.photoformulary.com)? I've been using them for over 6 months and nothing I've used (trays, tubes, etc.) works as well for me.

    Mike Troxell

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