Help me to learn Pan F+ and Perceptol.

[Athiril]

I have a scan from nikon coolscan 9000ED and result is nearly same. Problem is on negative, but I dont know why

Can you upload the original scan file somewhere? I can take a look.

[transporti686]

Can you upload the original scan file somewhere? I can take a look.

Sorry, I have no data, yet, but I saw scan from negative on the monitor. The result was nearly same.

I will try another roll from another seller and I will be testing exposures with Hitech 3,0 ND filter, without Hitech 3,0 ND filter, with orange filter and without orange filter.

[polyglot]

I've had that clumping effect on Pan-F before; I think it's due to temperature shocks during processing but I don't know. It's definitely (in my case) in the negative and not a digital artifact. I think I was using D76 or LC29 at that point and haven't had the problem with Rodinal 1+50, however my improved results might be due to better temp control.

[TareqPhoto]

I am not sure if i post some Pan F+ scans i done before, but i don't have any long exposure shots, maybe that what caused the problem, maybe the developer but i know that Perceptol is one fine for most Ilford films, can't define one factor for your problem.

[transporti686]

I've had that clumping effect on Pan-F before; I think it's due to temperature shocks during processing but I don't know. It's definitely (in my case) in the negative and not a digital artifact. I think I was using D76 or LC29 at that point and haven't had the problem with Rodinal 1+50, however my improved results might be due to better temp control.

Temperature was stable 20 degrees of celsius. I measured the temperature of developer, stopper, fixer and drinking water. Large thermal schock is not possible. Only one shock is possible - pH schock. Developer pH is in range 7,0 - 8,0 (Perceptol 1 + 1 destilled water), stopper 6,0 - 7,0 (destilled water) and fixer 5,5 (Fomafix).

[polyglot]

Is your wash also at 20C? I think my problems were due to differing wash temps but don't know for sure. I would suggest trying Rodinal or HC-110 as I've had very good uniform results with those (EI25, Rodinal 1+50 for 9:00, agitation first 30s plus 10s/minute).

Which is not to say it's definitely temp-related. My post is mainly just to confirm that it's a real thing that you're not imagining and it's not due to your scans.

[transporti686]

Or problem is not with film or developing process, but problem is with optics. I used Hitech 3,0 ND Pro Stop Filter. This filter creates blue color cast on digital cameras. See this link http://www.dannylintonphotography.co...0-stop-review/

Maybe this color cast is problem for film.

[transporti686]

Is your wash also at 20C? I think my problems were due to differing wash temps but don't know for sure. I would suggest trying Rodinal or HC-110 as I've had very good uniform results with those (EI25, Rodinal 1+50 for 9:00, agitation first 30s plus 10s/minute).

Which is not to say it's definitely temp-related. My post is mainly just to confirm that it's a real thing that you're not imagining and it's not due to your scans.

Yes, 20C. (same as developer, stopper, fixer, no high variability with temperature range, maybe +/- 1C)

[transporti686]

Or problem is not with film or developing process, but problem is with optics. I used Hitech 3,0 ND Pro Stop Filter. This filter creates blue color cast on digital cameras. See this link http://www.dannylintonphotography.co...0-stop-review/

Maybe this color cast is problem for film.

I will buy Hitech standard ND filter (density 2,1 - 7 stop or 2,4 - 8 stop, no PRO STOP 10 stop) and I will test this combination. This filter blocks visible light, but infra light goes through this filter. This filter creates red or pink color cast on digital cameras, because digital sensor is very sensitive to IR light. Infra light is not problem for Ilford Pan F Plus, because spectral sensitivity of this film is only to 650nm. Is it a good idea?

[polyglot]

I will buy Hitech standard ND filter (density 2,1 - 7 stop or 2,4 - 8 stop, no PRO STOP 10 stop) and I will test this combination. This filter blocks visible light, but infra light goes through this filter. This filter creates red or pink color cast on digital cameras, because digital sensor is very sensitive to IR light. Infra light is not problem for Ilford Pan F Plus, because spectral sensitivity of this film is only to 650nm. Is it a good idea?

Do some with/without testing of your filter on a single roll before buying another filter. I really doubt that the filter would be causing the problem but if you can show (in a single roll!) that the filtered frames have the issue and the unfiltered do not, then buying a different filter might be a good approach.