I ran the rest of that batch 2:2:100, with minimal agitation and development ran about an hour. I think they might be inside the useable envelope, or at least as salvaged as one could have expected. I've got several more film runs to do before I get into printing mode, but once I do, I'll post some scans of one or two of the best final prints in the run.
Thanks again for the help, everyone.
But I shoot almost exclusively ilford film in 35mm and a majority of it is HP5. Ive found that HP5 gives me marginal negatives when pushing to 800 and developing in TMAX, Ilfotec DD-X, and D-76. honestly Ive never gotten "great" results from any attempt at it.
yer just not trying hard enough. I've run HP5 at 3200 in D76 on a couple occasions. You just have to give a real good cooking and be prepared to deal with the ultra contrast when printing.
Pretty sure I have an example uploaded.
I push HP5 to 1600 all the time - I don't use Pyrocat though - I seem to have the best luck with D-76 - 15min at 70F - agitation first 30 seconds and 5 seconds per 30 seconds thereafter. Shadow densities do suffer - but I generally meter for them at zone 3 or 4 so there is almost always something printable in the shadows. I prefer the grain of pushed HP5 over Tri-x although I believe Tri-x is probably the winner in "pushability"
I used Tmax for HP5+ at 1600 now I prefer Delta 3200 at 1600 in Xtol for that. A two bath developer like Diafine or Tetenal Emofin should take care of highlight density. The problem from my point of view is not HP5+ but using a pyrocatechine developer, as I never had success to get good speed from them.
I remember we did HP5+ at 800 in Rodinal 1:100 for 80 mins, as diluted Rodinal gives 640 ASA on HP5+ on 1:50 for 18-20 mins.
Just for information I use a diffuse enlarger and require higher contrast.
Colour? We can always use an airbrush later...
I used to have problems with PX. I used a prebath of water with a tiny bit of wetting agent for a few seconds and got rid of bubbles. Saturating the emulsion with water may not be what you want. The developer must diffuse into the emulsion, perhaps against osmotic pressure which tends to make dilute solutions more dilute. IMHO, a short prebath as above will counteract wetting problems which are mostly due to surface tension.
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Originally Posted by gainer
This seems quite sensible. I'm about to do another run. I'll just do a 10-second or so prebath instead of 5-10 minutes and see how things go.
Alas I can't suggest times for Pyrocat, but I frequently expose HP5+ up to 1600.
I use fresh DDX at 20 deg C:
9.5 minutes for 800 or
12 minutes for 1600.
Agitation is inversion 6 times (10 seconds) in every minute. No pre-soak. If I need additional contrast I make the inversions a little more aggressive (almost cocktail shaker). I find over exposing by 2/3 and under developing usually nails good negatives.
here is another approach when you want the characteristics of a more conventional developer as well as the stain image of Pyrocat or PMK. Develop the filem in the conventional devloper, fix it and wash as usual, then bleach in a rehalogenating bleach and redevelop to completion in the staining developer. This retains the shadow detail or whatever curve shape you were after and adds a stain image proportional to the original silver image. This procedure is effective for intensification also, when you underdevelop either in a conventional developer or a staining developer. I use the term "conventional" even though in the days of Hurter and Driffield, pyrogallol was the conventional developing agent.
I ran the remaining rolls of that ei800 hp5 in Pyrocat 2:2:100 using minimal agitation and reduced my presoak to 20-30 seconds, and got much better results than the first couple of runs. Thanks very much for the suggestions.
Now of my new question. I'd start a new thread, but this issue was already somewhat brought up in this one, so I didn't think it warranted the overhead.
I'm about to restock film for a trip to California. I'd like a high-speed (indoor) film, and a lower speed (outdoor) film. Ideally, I'd like to push the higher-speed film to 800, but if that kind of speed ain't built into the film, I can accept that. [an aside: I wonder if any 4-inch roll aerial films are Pyrocatable with ei800 or more? Hrm...]
I've never ordered from JandC before, and I keep hearing people talk up their film and pricing, so I figure now's the time.
Is JandC classic 400 the film to try and get 800 out of?
For my outdoor film, what are the opinions here of Efke pl25 v. pl100? I plan on doing 90%+ of my shooting hand-held with the graflex and grafmatics, either shooting people at wide apertures or things/places at small apertures.
Ever since I got the new footswitch for my development by inspection, DBI has been going a lot better/easier. I keep seeing what looks like several stops of what looks like flashing or glare on my outdoor stuff. I'm going to take the graflex outside and see if I can see any bellows leaks later today. Hopefully, it's not a problem with the grafmatics. That would be harder to fix, I'm thinking.
Another way to check for bellows leaks is to put a light source such as a bare bulb inside the bellows in a dark room and look at the outside. You could use a night light fixture that you could put in through the lensboard.