What speed (EI) did you get by using Diafine?
Originally Posted by doughowk
Mama took my APX away.....
Going through some of my 4x5 negatives, some early ones had pinholes. My latest ones don't.
The early ones were Tri-X, and the later ones APX 100. But, the last ones were processed using a water rinse after developer rather than an acid stop bath, and also used alkaline fixer.
I suspect that the gas released during alkaline developer hitting acid stop bath or fixer may cause the pinholes.
The first time I tray developed an 8x10 negative, I gouged the negative with a fingernail. It was in the acid hardening fixer. Supposedly the negative is softest in the alkaline baths (developer) and harder in the fixer, but that's not at all what my tactile senses were telling me. The negative felt softer when it went into the fixer.
I haven't tried Efke sheet films yet, but I've had no scratches nor soft negatives when using the alkaline fixer combined with a water rinse after developer.
For 4x5 I use Jobo tank with inversion agitation. Takes lots of developer, but it works easily.
Well, drat, drat and drat. I was hoping to prove Francesco wrong, not because I have some sort of disagreement with him, but because I hate how easily Efke 100 scratches (at one point I became so angry that I threw my remaining Efke in the garbage, only to dig it out a few days later. It never quite smelled the same afterwards. Throwing away film just doesn't feel right, sort of like burning books.), but I've since tried HP5, J&C Classic 200 and Arista.edu 400 and Efke 100 shames them all. Looks like I'll be using Efke 100 for as long as J&C sells it and developing it one sheet at a time.
Originally Posted by Francesco
If your are using PMK as a developer, the hardening fixer really isn't necessary. PMK (the pyrogallic acid component) acts as a hardening developer. It reacts with the gelatin and has a hardening effect.
I can't really say anything about the sheet film, as I haven't tried it yet. But I can tell you that I've had a great time using it in 35mm and 120.
My primary developer is Rodinal, and I like 1+50 and 1+100 dilutions. With this developer I have had best success rating the film at E.I.50, one stop over-exposure.
With that said, I quite succesfully (!) mistook a roll of Efke 100 for HP5 and rated it at E.I.400. After some serious overdeveloping, I got some pretty good looking negatives! So, this film is extremely flexible in my opinion, with some great exposure latitude. It also responds well to different developing cycles with adjustments for tonal range and contrast.
Lately I've started using Agfa APX and Kodak TMX a lot instead of Efke, simply because of the scratching tendencies - especially in combination with a non-hardening alkaline fixer. I think that's basically the only negative aspect of this film, however, and if you are very careful, you may never experience any problems.
One more thing, if you try 35mm, make sure to load your camera in at least subdued light, as the film canisters are not the most light proof devices on earth.
Good luck with trying Efke out. It is beautiful stuff!
Saint Paul, MN
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I've found that I can minimize scratching with these more fragile films by using more careful technique--more solution in the tray than I would otherwise use, surgical glove on my shuffling hand to prevent scratching from my fingernails, pulling the sheet straight out from the bottom all the way before lifting, working a little more slowly and deliberately, more sheets per batch so that each sheet is handled less--but there are still very fine abrasions sometimes that could become visible in an enlargement. So for 4x5" I use a Nikor tank and I've acquired deep tanks and hangers for 5x7", but I'll still be doing 8x10" and 11x14" in trays.
Originally Posted by Tom Hoskinson
New to this film. What do you pre-soak it in? Same temp as the developer? I have noticed the softness as well and ruined a roll last week as i attempted to squeegee it after processing.
Thanks David. I've tried most of your suggestions already with no luck. The truth is I'm a klutz in the darkroom. The one thing I haven't tried is more sheets per batch. In fact, I've been trying to move the opposite direction and develop fewer sheets at once, but your approach makes more sense. I'll take some test pictures and see what happens. Thanks for the suggestion.
Originally Posted by David A. Goldfarb
Pre-soak in water, and yes, it should be the same temp as your other chemicals. If I were you, I'd lose that squeegee. I just give my film a final soak in Photo-Flo, then hang it up. Occasionally I'll have to re-rinse it to get rid of spots, but that's rare, and IMHO it beats dragging anything over the soft emulsion.
"If You Push Something Hard Enough, It Will fall over" - Fudd's First Law of Opposition
I agree completely on this. I was taught to do the final wipe of the negatives before hanging to dry, and have had countless rolls ruined by some dust particles being on the photo wipe strips. Since i stopped doing that final wipe, I have not had a roll become scratched.
Originally Posted by Doug Bennett
As to the sheet film if you want to do more sheets per batch there is a trick of using a wire tray inside of a larger tray to hold the sheets. Gordon Hutchings uses one to do 4 sheets of 4x5 in an 8x10 tray. Some here have in the past talked about a slosher tray. I haven't seen one, but all who have used them swear by them.