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Thread: Efke100

  1. #31
    dr bob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aggie
    I agree completely on this. I was taught to do the final wipe of the negatives before hanging to dry, and have had countless rolls ruined by some dust particles being on the photo wipe strips. Since i stopped doing that final wipe, I have not had a roll become scratched.
    I remember this from quite a while back. In addition there are many "method" books purporting the same non-sense. My mentor was very anti-squeegee and it certainly makes logical sense not to touch any wet film surface with anything other than liquids at that stage. I am about to test some 120 EFKE for the first time so I am very anxious to gain as much advice as possible. These pests (oops) posts have been quite helpful. Please keep them coming.
    I love the smell of fixer in the morning. It smells like...creativity!
    Truly, dr bob.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by dr bob
    I am about to test some 120 EFKE for the first time so I am very anxious to gain as much advice as possible.
    Rate it at 50.
    Jim

  3. #33

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    Yes! Lose the squeegee!

    I process a lot of 120 Efke 100. I presoak in water at the same temperature as the developer. I follow development (Pyrocat-HD) with a water rinse, then alkaline non-hardening fixer. After washing I do a final rinse in deionized water with a drop of low foam wetting agent. Hang to dry. NO HEAT!
    Tom Hoskinson
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  4. #34

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    Thanks, Aggie and Doug. I keep the water in huge cleaned detergent bottles so when I mix chemicals they are all the same temp. I will start that pre-soak today since I am taking the fall family photos tonight. Hope this works.

  5. #35
    dr bob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c6h6o3
    Rate it at 50.
    50 - really? I was planning to try the first roll at 80. OK, say I do 50, then can you suggest a development time? I was planning to use Rodinal 1:50 maybe 12 minutes at 20 degrees.

    I'll continue tests later. Right now I'm too excited to concentrate on science - more toward some ol' fashion snapping.
    I love the smell of fixer in the morning. It smells like...creativity!
    Truly, dr bob.

  6. #36
    c6h6o3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dr bob
    50 - really? I was planning to try the first roll at 80. OK, say I do 50, then can you suggest a development time? I was planning to use Rodinal 1:50 maybe 12 minutes at 20 degrees.

    I'll continue tests later. Right now I'm too excited to concentrate on science - more toward some ol' fashion snapping.
    Sorry. I only use staining developers, and develop by inspection whenever possible. I know nothing about Rodinal and have never used it. I'd give it about 13 minutes in Harvey's 777 at 74F. Does that help?
    Jim

  7. #37
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    dr bob,

    I've had some success with Efke 100 rated at EI50. But I use a developing time of 9min with Rodinal 1+50. If you need a dense neg for contact printing, I would probably go as far as 10 or 11min. To me, 13min sounds a little long. I guess it depends on how you develop. I use fairly gentle agitation patterns with a good stir of 15 seconds in as I pour the developer in, and then just 5 seconds every minute with one inversion and then tapping the tank on the bottom pretty hard a few times to get air bubbles out.

    I've also used Efke 100 @ EI100, normal, but developed 1+100 for 15min. All this at 68*F/20*C. I presoak for 3min, by the way with one water change.

    Hope that helps,

    - Thomas
    Saint Paul, MN
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

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  8. #38

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    If it helps any, I used to rate Macophot UP100+ (same films as efke, though JandC had estimated this batch at ISO 50) at E.I 80, and developed it for something like 13-14 minutes in D-76 1:1. I got those numbers through testing with densidometers ('though my professor did all the math...), and aiming to print with a cold head.... You could probably slash the developing times by some 15% to print on condensers.

  9. #39
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I've had good results with Efke PL100 at EI 80 in PMK.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  10. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by Andre R. de Avillez
    If it helps any, I used to rate Macophot UP100+ (same films as efke, though JandC had estimated this batch at ISO 50) at E.I 80, and developed it for something like 13-14 minutes in D-76 1:1. I got those numbers through testing with densidometers ('though my professor did all the math...), and aiming to print with a cold head.... You could probably slash the developing times by some 15% to print on condensers.
    While Maco UP 100 and Efke 100 are the same film the Maco film we were selling for 79 cents a roll last year was from a run where the emulsion turned out slower than normal which is why it was so cheap.

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