Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,932   Posts: 1,556,980   Online: 1051
      
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14
  1. #1
    kwmullet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Denton, TX, US
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    889
    Images
    16

    switch for DBI safelight

    I've probably spent a couple of hours searching around on the net for something I like the best to turn on and off my dark green safelight during development by inspection. Concensus indicates a footswitch, but sloshing around in the dark, spilling unknown quantities of stuff on my counter and possibly on the floor, while running 110vac through a switch on the floor doesn't seem like the height of safety to me.

    I ran across a post (photo.net?) from someone who attached a switch to a block of wood about knee high on their sink leg, and while that seems somewhat safer, what if I spilled something on the counter (got no sink yet) and it spilled down into the swich?

    Right now, I've got one of those cheapie home-depot remote lamp switches that snakes down from the power strip on the ceiling where the safelight is plugged in, and I flip that on and off. Not safe, but operative.

    Here's the weird idea I'm running through the apug discussion gauntlet:
    What if I put an X10 lamp module on the safelight plug, then got a wireless doorbell-type X10 switch and screwed that into my counter? I've got a light switch type kill switch installed on the wall for my overhead power strip, so if someone else's X10 inadvertanly turns it on, or I spill something on the swich and short it out (I could always plaster a baggie on top of it to waterproof it), I would just kill the power from the wall.

    Aside from the above, about the only downside I can see is that response to X10 signals runs about a half second to a second, so it wouldn't be as responsive as a directly connected switch, but it's the best thing I've thought of yet.

    [font=Verdana][sidebar: I'm never sure how to gauge cross-disciplinary expertise in a given audience. If someone wants, I'll do the 2-3 paragraph summary answer to "what the heck is X10?"][/font]
    -KwM-

  2. #2
    bmac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    2,156
    Images
    9
    Clap on! Clap Off. Get the Clapper!

    http://www.youcansave.com/clap.asp
    hi!

  3. #3
    glbeas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Roswell, Ga. USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,307
    Images
    109
    Simplest thing I can think of is an old fashioned pull string switch light socket. Mount the socket on the ceiling, put a screw in plug adaptor in it and plug in your safelight. All wires run at ceiling level and the string is made of an insulator. Only downside is having the string slap your face as you walk past it.
    Gary Beasley

  4. #4
    kwmullet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Denton, TX, US
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    889
    Images
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by glbeas
    Simplest thing I can think of is an old fashioned pull string switch light socket. Mount the socket on the ceiling, put a screw in plug adaptor in it and plug in your safelight. All wires run at ceiling level and the string is made of an insulator. Only downside is having the string slap your face as you walk past it.
    Hrm. That might be better/cheaper. Actually, the safelight I'm using with the green filter is a Kodak screw-in safelight, so no need for the plug adapter. I'd just replace what I've got now. Currently, I've got a ceramic socket screwed into the ceiling and wired to an AC plug that goes to the power strip. I'll just replace the socket with a pullchain one. Hopefully, I can find one that is far enough to the side of the socket to clear the rather large safelight. A very minor problem, though, compared to engineering something with X10 (which I found out tonight Lowes doesn't sell) or something that isn't wet-counter safe.

    Thanks for the gray-matter food.

    -KwM-

  5. #5
    c6h6o3's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    3,189
    Images
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by kwmullet
    Concensus indicates a footswitch, but
    No buts...get a footswitch. You need quick bursts of safelight (usually no more than one second in duration for each look), and you need to apply them while both hands are tied up holding a piece of film with nitrile gloves on.

    Here's a link to the one I bought. I'm very happy with it. A wonderfully robust product, a rarity these days.

    LineMaster Treadlite II

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    New Zealand
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,410
    Images
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by bmac
    Clap on! Clap Off. Get the Clapper!
    Wondered what you were talking about there for a minute.

    We use waterproof switches in my work in some situations. This may be another option. But the hand-free idea is def worth going for it seems to me.

    Brian - have you ever accidentally turned the light on with the Clapper? You know, by shuffling a tray or dropping something?

  7. #7
    bmac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    2,156
    Images
    9
    i dont use one in the darkroom, it was just a bad joke based on US pop culture
    hi!

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    New Zealand
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,410
    Images
    4
    Crikey, glad you told me! had the Visa out ready to go!!!

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Iowa
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    829
    Images
    7
    I agree with Jim. The footswitch is definitely the way to go. You'll need your hands for other things. I have the "Treadlite" switch as well. I bought mine off ebay for $12. I can't imagine a cheaper or better way to do it. How much do you really spill anyway?

  10. #10
    kwmullet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Denton, TX, US
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    889
    Images
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by c6h6o3
    No buts...get a footswitch. You need quick bursts of safelight (usually no more than one second in duration for each look), and you need to apply them while both hands are tied up holding a piece of film with nitrile gloves on.
    [...]
    I think I found one or two on eBay. The ones I found had a quarter-inch phono jack. If this is what you have, did you just replace the phono jack or did you replace the cable all the way back into the switch with a gauge more appropriate to 110vac?

    I'm now thinking I could get one of these, wrap plastic around it, and put a couple of wire ties at the top to make it safer on the floor by the sink.

    I really don't spill all that much, but sure as shootin', a hose'll burst leading into my print washer, or I'll have some other plumbing problem that'll make me wish I didn't have 110vac coursing through this metal thing on my floor.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin