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  1. #1

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    Potassium cyanide fixer

    I'm shooting a homemade dryplate emulsion and I'm interested in making ambroypes. So instead of my sodium thiosulfate fixer, could I use a potassium cyanide fixer to cause the silver to lighten?

    Also, can a potassium cyanide fixer be reused? Does a potassium iodide hypo check solution work for checking for exhausted fixer?

    Does a 2 min wash with 3 exchanges of water remove enough pyro so that i won't kill my self with chlorine gas? I intend to fix outdoors anyways..

    Currently I'm not fixated on historical accuracy, is there another way to lighten the silver deposits?

  2. #2
    Jim Noel's Avatar
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    Bleach them.
    You need to check with the experts on the collodion site.
    [FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]

  3. #3

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    I'm going out on a limb and guessing your talking about using bichloride of mercury as a bleaching solution? Anyone got a link to a recipe?


    heck, anyone have a link to where I can buy either chemical as in individual?
    Last edited by alexhill; 06-07-2010 at 06:44 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #4
    MikeSeb's Avatar
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    Out of curiosity, how dangerous is KCN to handle? This is exactly the lethal, prussic-acid stuff, isn't it?
    Michael Sebastian
    Website | Blog

  5. #5

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    Everything I've read says "wear gloves" and make sure as hell you don't get acid in it. Obviously you don't want it in any cuts. A side note, A google search turned up lots of depressing links on KCN, in particular a suicide help forum where everyone was recommending its use.

    And thats why I can't find a store to sell it to me

  6. #6
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    There is no chlorine involved, just HCN or HydroCyanic Acid or Prussic Acid. It is lethal in very tiny doses and can be easily absorbed through the skin. It smells like almond oil and is rather pleasant as the last thing you smell!

    Use it with great caution.

    It is not normally used to fix normal Silver Halide emulsion coatings nor is it easily tested for exhaustion AFAIK.

    BTW. Been nice having you here on APUG. Best wishes.

    PE

  7. #7

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    I've been having a great time on here

    So on my to find list I have three options:
    HydroCyanic Acid(can't find any one who sells it)
    potassium cyanide (10% solution, not sold to individuals)
    Mercury(II) chloride (5% solution, not sold to individuals)

    How do those blackpaws do it?

  8. #8

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    Hydrocyanic acid is very toxic - it will give off vapors that are toxic as well. Stay a long way from it.

    You should be able to find potassium cyanide. It's stable as a powder, although the bottles I've gently sniffed after opening do not have a pleasant smell to them... Keep it away from both strong and weak acids. Even vinegar/acetic acid is strong enough to evolve poisonous cyanide fumes from it.
    Kirk

    For up from the ashes, up from the ashes, grow the roses of success!

  9. #9

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    where are you going to dispose of your wash water and cyanide??
    you are in NH and i imagine if you are out of the southern and central cities you
    are on a well and septic system.
    i would be very careful with this deadly substance, not only when you are actually in contact with it,
    but afterwards if you don't dispose of it properly and you contaminate your ground water and everyone in your area's ground water.

    years ago gasworks used to use cyanide as part of the coal gasification process. they dumped it on site
    and when the gasworks were vanished and topsoil was put on the sites filled with cyanide and other toxins
    lawns were blue and there were HUGE instances of cancers, and it was all linked to cyanide.

    i would make a negative internegative and
    just make contact print onto your dry plates using the chemistry you are already using,
    that is what i used to do when i made glass positives it was easy.
    it might be an extra step ( internegative ) but in the end you won't wake up i dead.
    ask me how ..

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by jnanian View Post
    where are you going to dispose of your wash water and cyanide??
    you are in NH and i imagine if you are out of the southern and central cities you
    are on a well and septic system.
    i would be very careful with this deadly substance, not only when you are actually in contact with it,
    but afterwards if you don't dispose of it properly and you contaminate your ground water and everyone in your area's ground water.

    years ago gasworks used to use cyanide as part of the coal gasification process. they dumped it on site
    and when the gasworks were vanished and topsoil was put on the sites filled with cyanide and other toxins
    lawns were blue and there were HUGE instances of cancers, and it was all linked to cyanide.

    i would make a negative internegative and
    just make contact print onto your dry plates using the chemistry you are already using,
    that is what i used to do when i made glass positives it was easy.
    it might be an extra step ( internegative ) but in the end you won't wake up i dead.
    I will be disposing of this as I do with all the other photo chemicals. I'll be taking the hazardous waste to disposal day.

    I thought I'd share where I found a source to buy KCN Without shipping its 30$ for 25 grams or 500 grams for 80. I'd like to split an order with someone else from NH

    I'm going to give this a try.
    Fixer

    1. 5 grams Potassium Cyanide

    2. 500 mls H2o (distilled)

    *Do not mix this mixture with the developer at any time as a dangerous gas will occur. Use fixer many times until fixing properties are gone. Place the developed and rinsed plates into the fixer smoothly. Watch the plate so as not to over fix. It will become blue streaked with over fixing. When plate is fixed, rinse and wash plate in fresh water to remove residue of Fixer. Dry the plate in a heated cabinet if possible.

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