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  1. #11

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    Why you skipped the clearing bath step?
    This what happened: skipping the clearing bath has allowed the "main" image to superimpose to the "second" reversal image. What you have done is: re-exposure of the bleached "main" image, developed it (which obviously would not work on a bleached image), then fixed it AND the "reversal" image below it, which was not re-exposured nor developed, so the fixer washed away ALL "main" and "reversal" image.

    Think of the "reversal" image as being physically buried below the "main" image.

  2. #12

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    Take into account that Agfa Apx-100 in the reversal process has an inherently low Dmax, which yield very flat images. This finding is consistent with David Wood (Dr5)'s finding on his very own process, meaning that Apx-100 is unsuitable (at least to me) to being reversed.
    However keep trying...

  3. #13

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    The re-exposure is perfectly fine also done with the film on the reels. make sure you expose all the reel at no more that 5/10cm from the bulb for 2 minutes each side, not splattering water on it or it will probably shatter.

    Use an hardening fixer.

  4. #14

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    If you don't use an hypo solvent in the first developer you'll possibly get a reduced speed to begin with, 1 or 2 stops loss.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alessandro Serrao View Post
    If you don't use an hypo solvent in the first developer you'll possibly get a reduced speed to begin with, 1 or 2 stops loss.
    the lack of a solvent in the first developer causes the speed loss? I never knew that. I thought it was just to keep the highlights from being foggy.
    "I have captured the light and arrested its flight! The sun itself shall draw my pictures!"

    -Louis Daguerre, 1839-

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Existing Light View Post
    the lack of a solvent in the first developer causes the speed loss? I never knew that. I thought it was just to keep the highlights from being foggy.
    But if you think it's the other face of the same coin!
    :-)
    Put it in another way, the presence of hypo cause a speed gain...

  7. #17

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    Do you find pieces of emulsions in the fixer? If you do, there is a problem with bleaching. I would decrease the amount of permanganate. This type of bleach is not very user-friendly. Try dichromate belach if you can.

    I recommend to stop trying developing film that even pro lab (dr5) has difficulties with.

    I also think the relation speed vs. halide solvent is rather more complicated. The solvent just solve more or less silver depending on its amount and time of being applied.

    First you have to solve or state the answer what do you need the reversal for. Scan, projections or copying purposes? Than you can decide the right amount of solvent. I use the process for making slides for projection and my aim is to have enough halide solvent to have clear highlights but not to much so I have deep blacks in shadow areas... most of the conventional films are of rather less contrast I think, but I didn't make enough experiments with enough films.

    Anyway, good luck and keep posting your results.

  8. #18

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    Success! Well kind of... Finally I got some usable positive image on the Rollei Retro 100. I skipped solvent in FD, reduced the permanganate and bleaching time, skipped Clean and fix and increased the second exposure a lot. I don't know exactly yet as the film is still wet and I need to get some sleep. It looks somewhat dark though. Tomorrow I will report and post some scans hopefully!

  9. #19
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    I use Stannous Chloride to do a chemical re exposure instead of second exposure to a light bulb.

    This makes the re exposure step much easier.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by alxsav View Post
    Success! Well kind of... Finally I got some usable positive image on the Rollei Retro 100. I skipped solvent in FD, reduced the permanganate and bleaching time, skipped Clean and fix and increased the second exposure a lot. I don't know exactly yet as the film is still wet and I need to get some sleep. It looks somewhat dark though. Tomorrow I will report and post some scans hopefully!
    Glad you're finally getting something useable. Probably not a good idea to skip the clear bath (if that's what you mean when you say "skipped Clean." The fix step, according to Ilford, is optional, but should probably be done.

    If they're dark, the film is underexposed or underdeveloped. you'll have to adjust one or both of those variables.

    Looking forward to seeing some scans. Good luck. Your next roll should look better than this one
    "I have captured the light and arrested its flight! The sun itself shall draw my pictures!"

    -Louis Daguerre, 1839-

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