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  1. #11

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    Jorge,
    I have a lot of those little bottles too, let me know if you find a use!

  2. #12
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    Jorge, that is the kind of info I was looking for. Thank you.

  3. #13

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    DrPhil

    What you have documented here is pretty much what I currently use. I have homemade BTZS tubes, using Pyrocat-HD (1:1:100) on FP4 5x4 sheets. I use ISO 80 (but still need to redo my personal film speed test with Pyrocat) and print on Ilford papers for now. My standard dev time is 8mins @20c. Negs are wonderful.

    Quote Originally Posted by DrPhil
    I will be using Ilford FP4+ in 4x5 sheets.
    .....ISO=100 for Ilford FP4+
    Pyrocat HD 1:1:100
    I am aiming to print on Ilford MGVI RC and Fiber.
    .....
    Beginning with a presoak of 2 minutes
    Temperature is at 70 degrees(F)

    N-1 5:30
    N 8 to 8:30
    N+1 15:00
    No stop bath. Use water instead

    Kodak Rapid Fix for 5+ minutes

    First, How does everyone pre-soak with the BTZS tubes?
    My presoak technique consists of filling a spare cap (150ml approx) with dist water and substituting it in darkness onto the tube. I shake the tube vigourously for 30 seconds and then place in the tray, rotating it by spinning gently every 5 seconds for 1 second. This allows me to do a cycle on 4 tubes and keeps a constant agitation. Tubes are just stopping by the time I return to them. Initially I start each tube 30 sec apart so I have time to drain and put on caps full of developer before the next tube is ready.

    Some advice from my experiences.
    Number your tubes to help when the lights are on
    Don't mix dev times in the same batch i.e N and N+1 as you WILL loose the batch rhythm.
    Keep neg handling in tubes to a minimum. Anti halation dyes come out in the pre rinse, any left over (rare) comes out in the fix.

    I use stop bath because I have it. I fix under low light in trays

    Good luck

    Phill
    It is not tradition that secures the survival of our craft, its the craft that secures the survival of our traditions.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by wm blunt
    Jorge,
    I have a lot of those little bottles too, let me know if you find a use!
    Lets send them all to Robert Kennedy so he can harden the gelatin on his glass plates...

  5. #15
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    One thing I've read about the film and proper wetting with tubes, there is fiberglass window screen made which you can buy at any hardware store in bulk. You can cut it with regular scissors easily. There is a recommendation for cutting screen which is slightly longer than the film itself, so you can grasp the edge of the screen to pull out the film. This is easier because handling of the film is reduced and removing the screen pulls the film with it. The solution is able to circulate more readily behind the film for proper wetting of both sides..

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by noseoil
    Dr Phil,
    A good substitute for an acidic rapid fixer is Photographer's formulary's TF4. It is an alkaline fixer which works well.
    Dr Phil,
    The staining action on your film continues after fixing well into the wash process. If your fix is an alkaline base then you will get good wash stain -- TF4 fits this well. If it is not, i.e. Kodak's Rapid fix, put the film back into the spent pyro developer (alkaline) for a couple of minutes just before your wash.

    This second dunk into the developer will just adjust your film emulsion towards the alkaline side of things so you get maximum staining effect during the wash.

    Bill

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photographica
    Dr Phil,
    The staining action on your film continues after fixing well into the wash process. If your fix is an alkaline base then you will get good wash stain -- TF4 fits this well. If it is not, i.e. Kodak's Rapid fix, put the film back into the spent pyro developer (alkaline) for a couple of minutes just before your wash.

    This second dunk into the developer will just adjust your film emulsion towards the alkaline side of things so you get maximum staining effect during the wash.

    Bill
    I would not recommend putting it back in the spent developer unless you want an increase in overall stain, not proportional stain, which is the great advantage of most pyro developers and specially pyrocat HD.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jorge
    I would not recommend putting it back in the spent developer unless you want an increase in overall stain, not proportional stain, which is the great advantage of most pyro developers and specially pyrocat HD.

    Returning the film to the used developer. As Jorge points out, any additional stain you get from this procedure will be general or overall stain that serves no useful purpose and only leads to some incresase in exposure times.

    Gordon Hutchings originally descrdibed this procedure in The Book of Pyro but my understanding is that he no longer recommends it.

    Sandy King

  9. #19
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    Everyone,

    Thank you for taking the tie to answer my questions. Now, I have a few more.

    I will be testing everything using Ansel's methods; however, I am curious to see someone's BTZS curves for FP4+ in 1:1:100. Specifically developing time vs. N and EFS vs. N. I wonder how different these will be from my estimate using Ansel's method.

    I am leaving for vacation and won't have my enlarger fixed before I leave. Thus, I can't use the BTZS methods to make curves myself. I would be interested in what the BTZS curves say before I leave.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by DrPhil
    Everyone,


    I will be testing everything using Ansel's methods; however, I am curious to see someone's BTZS curves for FP4+ in 1:1:100. Specifically developing time vs. N and EFS vs. N. I wonder how different these will be from my estimate using Ansel's method.
    Tell me what kind of printing process you will be using and I will send you my BTZS development data for FP4+.

    Sandy King

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