I keep reading in the forums every so often about stand development, ie 60 minutes plus!
What are the benefits of this method? I assume it will be high compensation, and the minus points? (large grain?).
Are there any particular film/dev combos that work well?
Just got my first box of efke pl100 so anything I can try with this will be of great interest!
Earlier this year there was a lot of discussion on this topic in several threads on Michael Smith and Paula Chamlee's AZO forum. See http://www.michaelandpaula.com/mp/index_skip.html
Originally Posted by Chris Lee
You will probably find in the several threads there about as much useful information on the subject as is available anywhere else, either on the web or in print since, in addition to a lot of talking about the subject, quite a number of people actually experimented with the technique and reported results.
My opinion is that pure stand development is capable of providing some unique looking images in some situations but it is risky to use it as a substitue for more moderate forms of agitation.
Last edited by sanking; 08-03-2004 at 03:40 PM. Click to view previous post history.
The idea is that the highlights will exhaust the developer and the shadows will keep developing. Compensating development is another name for it
I think it works best in 35mm and MF, in larger formats you can have drag marks.
I like to use Rodianl 1+200 for this method.
Just agitate for the first minute and then go by a pizza, come back in 2-3 hours (time is not so important)
Mama took my APX away.....
As Sandy said, read the threads on the AZO forum, all the information is contained therein. I develop using BTZS-type tubes and minimal agitation with Efke PL100 8x10 inch film and Pyrocat HD diluted 1:1:120 - it is all I use and I have yet to have a single mark or scratch or whatever other artifact you can imagine. I am confident enough in my development procedures that I no longer expose for back up negatives. One scene - one shot! My negatives are extremely sharp (thanks to edge effects - the AZO forum has in depth discussions about this phenomenon), exhibits wonderful overall contrast, BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY, beautiful local contrast - it is this local or micro contrast which greatly contributes to a print's feeling of light (or glow, if you like) and three-dimensionality.
Originally Posted by Francesco
What exactly is your procedure for minimal development, specifically with PL100? I believe I heard Sandy mention that you should increase your standard times 30-35%, but I'm not sure if that was for minimal agitation or semi-stand. I've used semi-stand with Tri-X with good results, and even EFKE 100 in roll film, but not 8x10. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Just to clarify, I highly recommend both minimal agitation, which I understand as agitation as every three minutes or so, and even extreme minimal agitation, where you divide the total time of development up into four parts, agitate for about one minute at the beginning of the first part, then for ten seconds at the beginning of parts 2, 3 and 4.
Originally Posted by Silverpixels5
Both minimal and extreme minimal agiation will give greater adjacency effects, and increase apparent sharpnes, when compared to results with rotary (constant agitation) processing, and also very even development, which is not always the case with pure stand development.
Last edited by sanking; 08-03-2004 at 04:05 PM. Click to view previous post history.
Ron, I hope that you won't mind my reply to your question. My development procedures with Efke PL 100 are as follows.
1. Five minute presoak
2. One minute agitation followed by no agitation then 15 second agitation at one third and two thirds of total development time.
3. 30 second stop bath at 1/4 of normal dilution (acetic acid)
4. Four minute fix
5. twenty minute wash consisting of 5 dumps and refills.
I use BTZS type tubes...the same ones that Francesco uses...I believe... since I built them for him.
My times for Grade two Azo (1.65 density range) are as follows:
SBR 7 ---26 minutes
SBR 6 ---38 minutes
SBR 5 ---50 minutes
My times for enlarging on VC materials (condensor enlarger 1.15 DR) are as follows:
SBR 7 ---16 minutes
SBR 6 ---28 minutes
SBR 5 ---38 minutes
Hope that this helps. Good luck
Originally Posted by Silverpixels5
I have a dumb question. If you're using tubes do you fill them up completely with developer? If not how does the developer make contact with the entire sheet of film while sitting for that length of time?
Originally Posted by Donald Miller
Thank you very much for your help! I'm assuming these times are at 70F, is that correct?
Jim, there must be enough developer in the tube so that the film will be totally immersed in it when the tube is left standing. I allow an extra centimeter or so over the edge of the film just to be certain it stays under "water" even if some slight movement or shifting of the film might occur.
Ron, the tubes Don built for me are fantastic! I used to own some Darkroom Innovations type tubes but Don's 3-piece design is superior in every way - especially in protecting the film during insertion and most importantly during removal. As per his recommendation, I have now standardised on using a fiberglass mesh screen backing for my negs each time I use the tubes.
My procedure for minimal agitation is one minute initial agitation and then 15 seconds agitation at every 3 minute interval if total time is less than 30 mins or at every 5 minute interval if total time is greater than 30 minutes. My total times are between 2 and 3 times that of my times for continuous but gentle agitation.