I agree about the fix. Looks like the film hasn't cleared yet.
Hey ive used Legacy 400 before. I used Arista's "d76". I had great results with it. I developed for 7 1/2 min (Agitate for full first minute then 5 seconds every 30 seconds), Arista Stop bath 1 minute (Agitate for full minute), and fixed with Aristas Fixer also 5 min (Agitate for full first minute then 5 seconds every 30 seconds). What were your times? Agitation is very important along with consistency. Also what chemicals were you using and how old? Hope this helps.
Oh and i also hypo clear and use photo flo but it is NOT REQUIRED.
Was there some sort of aircraft involved in your trip? Did you pack your film in your luggage?
If you answered yes to both questions that could be the problem. It looks a lot like X-ray poisoning to me.
"Would you like it if someone that painted in oils told you that you were not making portraits because you were using a camera?"
"Shouldn't it be more about the joy of producing and viewing the photo than what you paid for the camera?"
It seems to me that if the OP had success with ID 11 then we can pretty well rule out processing/agitation problems as D76 is much the same developer.
We are short of all the info we need for a full diagnosis but it looks as if using fresh fixer is worthwhile. It looks like the classic milkiness of exhausted fixer.
OP How many times have you used the same fixer?
I agree that re-fixing the film might help. It might also be due to uneven development/agitation.
However, if I got a piece of film that looked like that I would also suspect that the film is fogged.
I would take a short piece of film, UNEXPOSED, and develop it normally just to rule out that possibility.
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It looks like insufficient developer for two reels, meaning one film is developing on the dregs from agitation. It could also be dev-fix contamination, leading to fogging.
first off, thanks a lot for the input. much appreciated.
should insufficient fixing be the cause, would refixing sort it completely then?
the fixer used was fotospeed fx30 (the one branded as odourless). used it many times with no problems whatsoever. it was fresh (i use it as a one shot) but from a nearly empty bottle i first opened in (i think) march, maybe april. have been wondering how long it could last but served me well until last week, when i developed films in ID11 and Rodinal.
for the agitation routine, i did 7:30 with agitation on the first 10 seconds and then 5 secs every 30 secs, 3 sideways movements left-right within a range of about a foot.
while fixing, i did 5 minutes at 1+9 dilution and agitated the first 10 seconds and after every 90 secs for a further 10 secs (hence agitating 3 times).
also, could it be of any help, the film i developed straight afterwards, reusing half of the dev, came out nicely but pretty stained despite careful routine washing and use of wetting agent.will try to wash again but i fear it could have some unremovable marks due to a little too much handling while loading into the reel (had to do it again 3 times as the reel, which i hadnt used before, seemed faulty. the reel i used instead was still a little damp).
the film did go through x rays twice, but i've done this many times and never had any problems whatsoever. unless oslo-torp airport's x ray machines are different than that of many other places, i can rule the option out, having already travelled with the same film in the hand luggage.
i used 650ml of dev, which is in excess of the 600ml required. i always use a bit more to make sure the whole film is sufficiently dunked. also, the problem is common in both films, which were staked one on top of the other.
i will try refixing a strip of 6 with new fixer either tonight or tomorrow. i loved visiting oslo but am hating having brought back such a bad cold/sore throat, might prefer a champions league game on the sofa, under a blanket than some more fixing...!
once again, thanks a lot for your interest and help!
I agitate a little differently and got good results. I also used different chemicals. Try some legacy the way i did it (main difference is agitation for the full initial minute), it might work. Also you never know about x-rays. Do you store the film in a protective bag? Some films may be more sensitve. You can always put your film on your carry on and ask for a hand inspection and explain why.
If fixing is the problem, re-fixing will cure it as long as the film isn't exposed to too much light and allowed to print-out. Time is of the essence here and it's something you should definitely do in this case.
I think your problem was insufficient fixing making the sprocket holes visible - note that there is not increased contrast (overdevelopment) coming from the sprocket holes, there is a lack of fog radiating from the sprocket holes. That means you didn't fix for long enough but (due to the fluid flow during fix agitation) the bits near the sprocket holes are not as poorly fixed.
To determine your fixing time, put a bit of exposed, undeveloped film leader in fresh fixer and time how long it takes to completely clear. The required fixing time is double that time. If you perform this test, you might find that your fixer concentrat has gone off (e.g. oxidised) in its empty bottle, making it slower than you expected even though you mixed up a "fresh" working solution.
You say the next film was stained. Staining (brown is what I've seen) can be visible when you have slightly- but not grossly-insufficient fixing. Refixing should cure it.
What is your fixing agitation scheme? For small tanks, I use continuous for 1 minute then 5s every 30s for the remaining time. One inversion* should take about half a second and you should invert about once per second.
*inversion = 180 deg rotation, not two rotations. You have an even number of inversions otherwise the tank will be upside down at the end.
As you are already !downunder" and upside down then surely this doesn't apply there or are you referring to the N Hemisphere only:
Originally Posted by polyglot