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  1. #21

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    Bob, the critical step is knowing how far Se toning has progressed. It may or may not be obvious. So, it might not be easy to know when to stop bleaching. Anyway, having some test strips would be nice to experiment with, before proceeding to the actual print. Obviously, you'd need to repeat the process exactly after the test run.

  2. #22
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    Bob... I know you use Kodak Sepia II kits for split tonig. I'd use the part A bleach from one of those packs. I find the stock pot ferri bleach solution to be VERY strong acting. For split toning my prints I dilute it 1:6 or more to get better control over this step and usually for no longer than 30 or 40 seconds. For what you are doing, stock solution might be the ticket to brighten those dull highlights, and crispen them up nicely. I assume you are leaving out the sulphide step and going straight to selenium. That said, the bleach alone at that strenght will tend warm things a little anyway.
    Please check out my website www.amoxomphotography.com and APUG Portfolio .....

  3. #23

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    Now that I think of it, you'd better bleach, fix, then do any toning. The only thing I don't know about is gold toning (too pricey for my wallet), and how it works... hi-lo tones getting toned first etc... That's IMHO the safest way, you'll have guaranteed that you have some silver to tone.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Grant View Post
    ... Perhaps a simpler explanation is that Ferricyanide on it's own attacks the smaller grains first, that's why it's used with or without bromide for split toning, but with Thiosulphate added Farmers Reducers attacks the larger "black" grains as well at the same time. ...
    Yes, that makes sense! Thanks for your explanation.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  5. #25
    Guillaume Zuili's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Carnie View Post
    Ian : this sounds pretty logical, what do you think. If I bleach and refix after selenium, then move to my sepia tone and gold for the look, ??
    Hi Bob,
    I often do this selenium/bleach/sepia. You don't need to fix because you go to sepia.
    If you just do selenium and bleach, then you fix and wash.
    Z.

  6. #26
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Carnie View Post
    Ian : this sounds pretty logical, what do you think. If I bleach and refix after selenium, then move to my sepia tone and gold for the look, ??
    Sounds logical. Changing the sequence will change the look, it's more about being consistent.

    Ian

  7. #27
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
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    Andrew
    I stopped using the Kodak kits a few years ago and mix from scratch now thanks to Ian.
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Moxom View Post
    Bob... I know you use Kodak Sepia II kits for split tonig. I'd use the part A bleach from one of those packs. I find the stock pot ferri bleach solution to be VERY strong acting. For split toning my prints I dilute it 1:6 or more to get better control over this step and usually for no longer than 30 or 40 seconds. For what you are doing, stock solution might be the ticket to brighten those dull highlights, and crispen them up nicely. I assume you are leaving out the sulphide step and going straight to selenium. That said, the bleach alone at that strenght will tend warm things a little anyway.

  8. #28
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
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    G

    Yes, but the problem is I want to brighten the highlights before I go to the toning stage. otherwise I make my prints too brown by toning right after the bleach.
    therefore the first bleach to lift the highlights without affecting the blacks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Guillaume Zuili View Post
    Hi Bob,
    I often do this selenium/bleach/sepia. You don't need to fix because you go to sepia.
    If you just do selenium and bleach, then you fix and wash.
    Z.

  9. #29
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
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    Thanks Ian.
    I plan to make a complete edition of 11x14 AP's before I get to the small edition set.
    I have a show in Feb that I want to nail the print look before hand.
    I am planning to try Ilford matte as this is a great paper for the look I am trying to achieve, this paper tones lovely.


    thanks every one for the advice/help.


    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Grant View Post
    Sounds logical. Changing the sequence will change the look, it's more about being consistent.

    Ian

  10. #30
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
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    Here are a couple a d** sample's of the look i am trying to achieve.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails S3.jpg   twin1.jpg  

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