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  1. #31
    Guillaume Zuili's Avatar
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    Great stuff Bob

  2. #32
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    Thanks Guillaume, send me a email need to talk about some stuff.

    Jerry
    Quote Originally Posted by Guillaume Zuili View Post
    Great stuff Bob

  3. #33
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Grant View Post
    ... Perhaps a simpler explanation is that Ferricyanide on it's own attacks the smaller grains first, that's why it's used with or without bromide for split toning, but with Thiosulphate added Farmers Reducers attacks the larger "black" grains as well at the same time. ...
    Ian

    At first, I thought this made sense, but after doing a test last night, I'm starting to doubt it. I compared the two methods on two identical step-tablet prints, and there is absolutely no visible difference. I'll take some densitometer measurements as soon as I get to it. Maybe that will show a difference.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  4. #34
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
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    I am going with 30grams to 10 litre as suggested , made the prints and now I will do the bleach and report back . I have made five fairly identical 11x14 of one neg on three different papers, Ilford mg4matte and gloss and Ilford warmtone.
    I hope to tri tone tommorow and will let you all know how I feel after this.

    thanks to all.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Grant View Post
    There's too many variables Bob. However a 100g/litre of each diluted 1+10 works very fast, that's 10g/litre, your talking a touch under 3g/litre, I'd start by diluting that a further 1+9 (1:10) so you have about 3g/litre Ferricyanide & KBr

    One nice point about using this bleach is if it goes too far, you just wash and re-develop, the room light is usually sufficient to re-expose the bleached emulsion.

    Ian

  5. #35
    CBG
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    The reversibility of a ferri/bromide bleach is a godsend. Knowing you have a fall-back strategy frees you. Bleaching can be very finicky, and easy to overdo; the second chance the bromide gives you is an insurance policy.

  6. #36

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    is there no need to refixing using Farmers Reducer? just proceed with normal washing?

  7. #37
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StigHagen View Post
    is there no need to refixing using Farmers Reducer? just proceed with normal washing?
    It's advisable to re-fix in fresh fixer after Farmers Reducer as fixing may not have been complete.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  8. #38

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    Does anyone here bleach as a standard part of their print process?

    There's a great Seattle area photographer who's known for "printing down, and bleaching up."

    www.jerrygay.com

    (He won himself a Pulitzer too, btw)

  9. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphLambrecht View Post
    It's advisable to re-fix in fresh fixer after Farmers Reducer as fixing may not have been complete.
    can I mix parts of the package, or is it nescessary to mix it all at once?

  10. #40
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StigHagen View Post
    can I mix parts of the package, or is it nescessary to mix it all at once?
    Mix potassium ferricyanide and fixer only as needed, as the mixture has a very low shelve life. That's why I never buy Farmers Reducer. I just buy the potassium ferricyanide, prepare a 1% solution and mix it with fixer as needed or use them in sequence.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

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