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  1. #21

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    found here:

    Propionic acid 15 ml
    Stannous chloride 2 grams
    Sodium hydroxide 5 grams (care!)
    Water to make 1 litre
    posted as "Nameless formula" of fogging bath.

  2. #22
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    That is essentially the Kodak E6 reversal bath.

    PE

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    That is essentially the Kodak E6 reversal bath.
    hmm ... is this solution will be more stable than bath with acetic acid + sodium acetate?

    as I can understand both formulas with stannous chloride need develop film after it use. mix stannous chloride with developer is impossible, because pH. but what do think if we mix something like next: Amidol + Ascobic acid + Sodium bisulphite + Stannous chloride ? some time ago I was try combination of Amidol + Ascobic acid + Sodium bisulphite as film developer with low pH (about 5-6) and its work

  4. #24
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    I have no answer to your questions. Maybe someone else will have the answers for you.

    Sorry.

    PE

  5. #25

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    Stannous chloride foggant recipe

    This is my 2 cents worth.When I was working for a pro lab here in Toronto in the mid-1970's we did E-3 process using light box reversal of the film after the hardener bath while the film was washing and before the colour dev.

    Wouldn't it be much simpler to build such a box of plexiglass or clear acrylic and put one light either side and wire them with a dimmer switch to vary the brightness.I think this would be a more repeatable method of reversing than to introduce another chemical into the environment and it would give more control over the reversing step.

    Doug

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    Doug;

    It is a very good way to do reversal exposures. I used it myself for all color reversal from E-1 forward to E-4.

    PE

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    Stannous chloride foggant recipe

    Hi Ron: Yes it is and like I said in my lst post, yo're not adding another potentially hazardous chemical to the environment.Plus this method is very repeatable and consistent roll to roll or sheet to sheet.

    Doug

  8. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Propionic acid 15 ml
    Stannous chloride 2 grams
    Sodium hydroxide 5 grams (care!)
    Water to make 1 litre

    That is essentially the Kodak E6 reversal bath.
    I mix this bath. Yes, its working fine. But after dissolution of all components formed a strong precipitate with milk-white color. why?

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrst View Post
    As I've said before, using Ilford's recommendation of 8-12 g/l on Agfa APX100 resulted in complete removal of image when I tried it, while zero hypo worked. So I'd agree that 0.5 g/l would be a better starting point...
    Wouldnt this amount vary depending your developing time and dilution? IE: More dilute developer/longer time with the same film, less hypo?

  10. #30
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    Relayer;

    I have posted the information about the precipitate in an earlier post. I hope that it helps.

    Athirl;

    You are right. The level of hypo needed varies with film and with developer. For example, a high solvent developer would need less hypo.

    PE

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