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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by wiggywag View Post
    Any idea how many minutes it takes to develop the print with this developer?
    90 seconds.

  2. #12
    brian steinberger's Avatar
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    I recommend trying Ilford's warmtone paper in Ansco 130 1:1 2 minutes for what you're looking for. It works wonderfully for me, giving a great "glow" with a hint of warmth.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by brian steinberger View Post
    I recommend trying Ilford's warmtone paper in Ansco 130 1:1 2 minutes for what you're looking for. It works wonderfully for me, giving a great "glow" with a hint of warmth.
    Where can I buy Ansco 130? Did not find it on freestylephoto. Link pls :-)

    How does it differ from dektol, the developer I´m using now?

  4. #14
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    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

  5. #15

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    Try to pick up a copy of The Darkroom Cookbook, or an old Photo-Lab Index. There are recipes galore in both.

    Reading the former, you will find out that the things that are added to standard developers to make them into warmtone developers are the same things that cause development to slow down (for example, bromide, which is most commonly used solely as a restrainer). I returned the book to the library, but if I remember correctly, the speed (or perhaps the elapsed time) of the development has a great effect on the hue of the developed ("reduced") silver.

    The hue of your prints should not affect the "glow." That is all about lighting and printing.

    Various toners are worth trying as well. Selenium's effect varies a lot with the paper. The reason I don't use it much is because it tends to make things an almost eggplant-like purple-brown, or in some cases just purplish, on the papers I use most of the time.

    If you have not tried it yet, you should splurge on a box of Ilford MGFB Warmtone glossy fiber. It has an extremely subtle warm tone – barely perceptible except in overall effect, unless held side by side with a neutral print, IME. The matte, OTOH, is noticeably warm even when viewed alone. This is an amazing paper, IMO the best that Ilford has by a long shot. I just cannot afford it any more on a regular basis.
    Last edited by 2F/2F; 10-25-2010 at 02:41 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

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  6. #16
    clayne's Avatar
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    2F, a 1+20 dilution of Selenium at short periods before eggplant is pretty decent. Anyways, haven't bought MGWT in a while, is it off that sick-looking yellow base?
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

  7. #17

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    I have never had a box with much of a tint that I noticed. It is definitely not a "snappy" bright white like Oriental, but certainly not yellow.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  8. #18
    brian steinberger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wiggywag View Post
    Where can I buy Ansco 130? Did not find it on freestylephoto. Link pls :-)

    How does it differ from dektol, the developer I´m using now?
    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...for_Black.html

    I prefer 130 to Dektol. They are similar. From my experience I find 130 to produce a nicer tone on the papers I use, MGWT and Oriental VC. Plus an added advantage is that since 130 includes glycin it is highly resistant to oxidation so you can mix up a working solution 1:1 and keep it for months, in a tightly capped bottle of course.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by clayne View Post
    2F, a 1+20 dilution of Selenium at short periods before eggplant is pretty decent. Anyways, haven't bought MGWT in a while, is it off that sick-looking yellow base?
    Have to agree, when I was switching papers after Agfa's demise I looked at MGWT FB and the sickly base ruled it out, I went tp Polywarm tone instead. It's a white base now and looks really nice.

    Others comment warm tone developers are slower that's not really true unless you're trying for extreme warmth with development using, long exposure times and quite dilute developers. Most modern papers don't

    Developers like Neutol WA and Ilford Warmtone or Ilford ID-78 are no slower than Dektol or other neutral/colder tone developers.

    Any over development with a warm tone paper & warm tone developer cools the tones significantly, so development needs to be kept to the minimum needed to get a good range of tones.

    Ian

  10. #20

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    I like the MGWT when I'm going to be doing toning in sepia or brown toner. It's the only paper I've seen that can give me a chocolate brown when I want it. It does have kind of a vanilla base and I could see why people don't like it when they aren't after a significantly warmer tone. But like 2F/2F mentioned, Ilford is extremely proud of that paper. Way too expensive.

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