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  1. #21

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    The OF-1 formula looks interesting, but why is the alkali necessary? Doesn't it work if it's neutral (or becomes acidic through contamination)?

  2. #22
    Jorge Oliveira's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ole
    I have just finished my first bottle of TF-4, and it's going to be my last. The ammonium smell is far stronger than from my own recipe, without significant increase in speed or capacity.

    Ole

    Nice to know the homemade stuff is as good or better than the bottled one!

    Cheers,

    Jorge O
    Curitiba - nice place to live, if you don't care about the weather...

  3. #23
    Ole
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    Quote Originally Posted by psvensson
    The OF-1 formula looks interesting, but why is the alkali necessary? Doesn't it work if it's neutral (or becomes acidic through contamination)?
    It works just fine. But I prefer to have a buffered solution of known pH, as it makes everything a lot more predictable. Both alternatives give a pH of about 8.5, which is just enough to be stable and wash out easily.

    I know from experience that acidic ammonium fixers bleach highlights in prints, and I assume they also lose shadow detail in film. I have also established to my own satisfaction that this does not happen with alkaline fixers, at least not without ridiculously long fixing times or very sensitive processes (read: van Dyke).

    That's why I put alkali in it.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  4. #24

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    Thanks, that's interesting. I've saved the formula. I've tried using plain sodium thiosulfate + sulfite. That worked fine for paper and Tri-X, but wouldn't quite fix Delta 400 to satisfaction, so it's interesting to see a nice and simple formula for rapid fix.

  5. #25
    Ashfaque's Avatar
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    Sorry to post on such an old thread - I'm just a novice.
    Quote Originally Posted by jade View Post
    To me the biggest benefit of using an alkaline fixer like TF-4 is the elimination of both the acid stop and hypo clearing (washing aid) baths. You only need 2 chemicals: developoer and fixer. That's it. Much much less hassle, and fewer things to keep.

    The other benefits in the case of TF-4 is fast fixing time, long lasting, no acid smell and very easy to wash off. The last of these is according to Phtographer's Formulary since I cannot tell myself. Formulary says there's no need to use any washing aid. Luckily I have a local shop that sells TF-4 so no need to pay shipping from mail order. It's the only thing I use now. Cannot imagine going back to acid ever again. You must try or you won't know what you are missing.

    j
    So, in summary, I should not be using any acidic stop bath if I am planning to use:
    (1) an alkaline fixer, in general - for e.g., TF-4, TF-5, Moersch ATS Alkaline Fixer, etc.
    (2) an alkaline fixer to keep the stain as much as possible, resulting from any staining developer (PMK, Pyro-HD, etc.)

    Another possibly dumb query: is there a non-acidic stop bath? I am aware of 'Ilford wash method' as an alternative to using stop bath chemicals.

    Best regards,

    Ashfaque

  6. #26
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    When printing, an acid stop can help with uniformity, especially if you are eager to turn on the lights and see your print.

    I use a weak (1% acetic acid) stop before any fix, alkaline or not.

    There are acidic and neutral stop baths.

    PE

  7. #27
    Bruce Osgood's Avatar
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    Another possibly dumb query: is there a non-acidic stop bath? I am aware of 'Ilford wash method' as an alternative to using stop bath chemicals.

    Best regards,

    Ashfaque

    It ain't dumb. The best non-acidic stop bath to be used is water. Especially if you are using TF-4, 5 as your fixer. Some think a stop bath is counter productive when developing a print and the water bath following the development actually enhances the image. But that's just some of us.

  8. #28

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    1) TF-5 is not alkaline. It is neutral (slightly acidic)

    2) You can use an acetic acid stop bath with TF-5 and even with TF-4 (or do a water rinse after the acid stop bath)

    3) With alkaline fixers, if you decide to skip an acid stop bath, your water rinse should be thorough. If not, there is the possibility development could actually restart in the fixer. It should also be fresh water, or running water. Otherwise it will become alkaline from developer carryover.

  9. #29
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    The water bath (if you use one) should be running water to prevent seasoning in by the alkali of the developer. So, be careful with this.

    PE

  10. #30
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    Sorry, but can you explain 'seasoning' - I use a 'static' water stop and wonder what is the effect of this on my prints?
    Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    The water bath (if you use one) should be running water to prevent seasoning in by the alkali of the developer. So, be careful with this.

    PE
    regards,

    Tony

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