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Thread: Efke Newbie

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikebarger View Post
    Water is toxic if you drink enough of it.
    I think the next guy who says that again should be required to demonstrate.

  2. #12
    yeknom02's Avatar
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    Mark Anthony Smith is the guy behind Photo Utopia? I love that blog. I always see if there's a 1+50 or 1+100 Rodinal dilution on the Massive Dev. Chart, so I'm glad to see that his blog post recommends 1+100.

    I have never heard of "Orthopanchromatic." I assume it means that you have only slightly darker "reds?"
    "When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." - HST
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  3. #13

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    Yes, I do have a few "hard-learned lessons" to share.

    1) Use a very carefully controlled process. Do not let temperature vary much between chemicals and wash water. (This includes hypo clear and Photo Flo.)

    2) Avoid major changes in pH from chemical to chemical. Skip the stop bath (recommended by Efke) and try to use an alkaline fixer. Avoid strong developers with sodium carbonate, such as D-19.

    3) Avoid touching the emulsion when the film is wet. This can sometimes be hard if tray processing sheet film, which leads to my next point.

    4) With sheet film, use either tray sloshers or hangers/tanks instead of using the shuffling method. There are always plenty of people in these threads who report being able to pull this off, but it is magic to me. I always got scratches when doing it, even with modern thin, hardened emulsions.

    Also good to know is that the spectral sensitivity of these films leans just a bit toward orthochromatic.

    The 100 is my favorite for sheet film. I like to shoot it hand held in 4x5 cameras. It is nice and flat, and grainy for a 100 film, by today's standards.

    All of the speeds are grainier than a modern film of the same speed would be expected to be.

    The 50 has the most contrast IME.

    The films compress the highlights much more strongly than modern films. Sometimes this is something to use, and other times it is something to avoid.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

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  4. #14
    georg16nik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeknom02 View Post
    Mark Anthony Smith is the guy behind Photo Utopia? I love that blog. I always see if there's a 1+50 or 1+100 Rodinal dilution on the Massive Dev. Chart, so I'm glad to see that his blog post recommends 1+100.

    I have never heard of "Orthopanchromatic." I assume it means that you have only slightly darker "reds?"
    In the case of Adox CMS 20 Reds are darker since the sensitivity drops after ~ 610nm. You have spectral sensitivity punch in the deep Violet (~400nm), true Green (~530nm) and Yellow-Orange (~590nm).. on top of that, its kind of blind for Blue (~460nm) & blue-cyan (~480nm).
    Regards,
    Georg

  5. #15
    Guillaume Zuili's Avatar
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    Good point from Peter, Pyro is great with Efke 25. You don't risk much with Pyro dev with such a high dilution.
    And the tanning effect is a good protection for your negative.
    But Rodinal, 1+50 or 1+100 is also stunning.
    You don't really need a hardening fix for roll film.
    Follow 2F/2F points and you will be fine.

  6. #16

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    When I tried Pyro and Efke 25 last I found I didn't get very much stain. This was back in 2007 and I was comparing it to the stain I got with Bergger 200.

  7. #17

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    all films stain differently....please proof afterwards to see what you have done and it will be a check for your workflow....meter;shutter; dev process....proof is in the proof
    there are fix hardeners available I think from BFK....a chems mfg
    with some films you do get what you pay for....try tny2 if you want to see a fine grain film at 400 asa
    Best, Peter
    website down for maintenance!

  8. #18
    yeknom02's Avatar
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    Re: 2F/2F's #3 point - So would a plastic film squeegee be safe to use on the film when it's time to dry?

    I bought some Kodafix solution today, which I'm told is a hardening fixer. But I was also told that I can't use it with TMax or Ilford Delta films, as they are pre-hardened more than most other modern emulsions. Can anyone verify or refute this?
    "When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." - HST
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  9. #19

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    BTW, Efke and Adox CHS are the same emulsion. If you are shooting 120, get the Adox instead, as it comes with a reusable film canister.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  10. #20
    michaelbsc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeknom02 View Post
    Re: 2F/2F's #3 point - So would a plastic film squeegee be safe to use on the film when it's time to dry?
    Not in my experience. Take it out of the reel carefully after you have used a wetting agent in the final rinse so the water sheets off - Photoflo, Ilfoflo, Edwals, something_you_prefer - and hang it to dry without touching it. No squeegee, no finger wiping, nothing. (This is why the wetting agent is important, so the water won't spot the emulsion.

    Unlike most people recommend, I do not change my fixer mix from my regular routine, so I'm *NOT* using a hardening fixer. And you really can wreck the emulsion if you aren't gentle.


    Quote Originally Posted by yeknom02 View Post
    I bought some Kodafix solution today, which I'm told is a hardening fixer. But I was also told that I can't use it with TMax or Ilford Delta films, as they are pre-hardened more than most other modern emulsions. Can anyone verify or refute this?
    Can't say. I use rapid fixer.
    Michael Batchelor
    Industrial Informatics, Inc.
    www.industrialinformatics.com

    The camera catches light. The photographer catches life.

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