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Thread: Efke Newbie

  1. #1
    yeknom02's Avatar
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    Efke Newbie

    After hearing good things about the sharpness of Agfa APX 25 (now dead), I decided that I should try out a bunch of lower-speed films to see what they look like. I ordered some Plus-X and FP4+ (yes I know they're really medium speed), and also some Pan F and Efke KB 25. (Note: other emulsion suggestions also welcome)

    I decided to try the Efke first. Quite frankly, because the blue base (anti-halation coating?) just looks awesome. However, from what I can gather on the forums it is an "old-style" and "more delicate" emulsion. Beyond recommended times and the replacement-if-defective notice, there are no special instructions inside the box.

    I am wondering if anyone has some hard-learned lessons they would be willing to share before I try shooting and processing it. I plan on using Agfa Rodinal (looking for sharpness), with Zonal Pro stop bath and rapid fixer. I use the Ilford method of washing, and I typically use a bit of Kodak Photo Flo. I also hang the roll in the shower to dry. (Edit: I also just got a Paterson hose for my tank to try washing the non-Ilford way.)

    So any suggested changes in my working process to ensure I get the most out of this film?
    "When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." - HST
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  2. #2

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    the efke films are prone to processing mistakes and is not the best film to learn on. Pyro developers will give an advantage as they stain and harden the emulsion. use a hardener in the fix. these films will give beautiful results if used correctly; and scratches etc if not. but go and try because that is THE ONLY way you will learn anything
    the asa on these film are usually 3/4 to 1/2 of stated box speed
    Best, Peter
    website down for maintenance!

  3. #3
    Guillaume Zuili's Avatar
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    It's beautiful in Rodinal.
    I wouldn't use a stop bath, just a water rinse.
    G.

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    yeknom02's Avatar
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    Thanks Peter,

    I agree - I'm never really going to know what this film is like if I don't try it out, so I've got a healthy can-do attitude at the moment. Is there a hardener I can add to the fixer, or do I need to mix up some hardening fixer? And regarding your ASA comment... does that mean the ASA is more like 50 or more like 12?

    I'm hesitant to look at Pyro since it is apparently toxic, and I also would like to get a good feel for Rodinal first.
    "When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." - HST
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    For 35mm You might wanna try Adox CMS 20, ADOX ortho 25 or even ADOX Pan 25.
    There are some images, shot on Adox CMS 20 in my gallery.
    Regards,
    Georg

  6. #6
    yeknom02's Avatar
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    I was thinking of trying Adox as well, but I didn't know the differences between all those different emulsions you listed.
    "When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." - HST
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  7. #7

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    +1 for the Rodinal, Amazing!

  8. #8

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    Adox CMS 20 is orthopanchromatic
    ADOX ortho 25 is orthochromatic
    ADOX Pan 25 is panchromatic
    You might check Adox site, they have the technical data for all of them and You can decide which film curve will meet Your needs.
    Also, keep in mind that Adox CMS 20 works best in its dedicated developer Adotech..
    Not that I haven't developed it in Rodinal

    Good luck
    Regards,
    Georg

  9. #9
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    Check out Mark Antony Smith's blog. He has some very useful user-perspective film reviews that always make an excellent read. For Adox/Efke CHS 25 he recommends moderately to highly diluted Rodinal.

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    Water is toxic if you drink enough of it.

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