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  1. #1
    marko_trebusak's Avatar
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    fixer for Pyrocat-HD and some test questions

    Hi folks!

    I've been following this forum some time, and now decide that I too have something to ask.

    I just received my first bottle(s) of Pyrocat-HD developer and I'm about to try it out. And here are my questions:

    -Sandy King recommends an alkaline fixer for this developer, but unfortunately as now, I can't find raw chemicals to make it on my own. So what do you think, can I simply use rapid fixer from Ilford (without
    hardener)?

    -I can't find times recommended for Fuji Acros in 35 mm. The closest thing I find is 7,5 min at 21oC. What are your comments.

    -I don't have a densitometer, so can you recommend me a test protocol for determining the optimal speed of the film, and determining the optimal developing time (both for Acros and Pyrocat-HD)

    Thank you
    Marko

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by marko_trebusak
    Hi folks!

    I
    -Sandy King recommends an alkaline fixer for this developer, but unfortunately as now, I can't find raw chemicals to make it on my own. So what do you think, can I simply use rapid fixer from Ilford (without
    hardener)?

    -I can't find times recommended for Fuji Acros in 35 mm. The closest thing I find is 7,5 min at 21oC. What are your comments.


    Thank you
    Marko

    If the rapid fixer from Ilford was all available I would not hesitate to use it with Pyrocat-HD. Image stain is very resistant to change once formed so I don't think the nature of the fixer is as important as some appear to believe.

    As for Acros, can not be much help to you. I don't have any good testing data for this film.

    Sandy

  3. #3
    Alex Hawley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marko_trebusak
    Hi folks!
    -Sandy King recommends an alkaline fixer for this developer, but unfortunately as now, I can't find raw chemicals to make it on my own. So what do you think, can I simply use rapid fixer from Ilford (without
    hardener)?
    Ilford Rapid fix is the only fixer I have ever used with PyroCat or ABC pyro. If it does something detrimental to the negs, I'm sure missing it.
    Semper Fi & God Bless America
    My Photography Blog

  4. #4

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    "-Sandy King recommends an alkaline fixer for this developer, but unfortunately as now, I can't find raw chemicals to make it on my own. So what do you think, can I simply use rapid fixer from Ilford (without
    hardener)?"


    In my experience as well, Ilford non-hardening Rapid Fix works very well with Pyrocat-HD.

    "-I can't find times recommended for Fuji Acros in 35 mm. The closest thing I find is 7,5 min at 21oC. What are your comments."

    I have worked out a starting point for Fuji Acros developed in Pyrocat-HD. It should be regarded as a starting point only. I have not yet tested it.

    I base my recommendation on my experience with Ilford Delta 100, Fuji Acros and Efke 100 developed in 50:1 Rodinal with minimum agitation.

    I compared the Rodinal data with my data for Ilford Delta 100 and Efke 100 developed with minimal agitation in 1:1:100 Pyrocat-HD.

    For Fuji Acros in Pyrocat-HD 1:1:100, try 13 minutes with minimum agitation at 20 degrees C or 12 minutes at 21 degrees C.

    I define minimum agitation as two gentle toroidal inversions of the tank per minute.

    Presoak the film in water for 5 minutes before developing.

    Rinse in water - no acid stop bath after developing.

    Fix and wash according to the Fixer manufacturer's directions.

    "-I don't have a densitometer, so can you recommend me a test protocol for determining the optimal speed of the film, and determining the optimal developing time (both for Acros and Pyrocat-HD)."

    Color minilabs typically will have densitometers and will perform the densitometry measurements for you.

    For densitometry, I use photographs of a smooth, evenly lighted, north facing wall taken with the camera on a tripod and the lens focused at infinity. I rate the film at the manufacturer's rated value for these tests.

    I meter the light on the subject wall and take a series of 11 or 12 photographs spaced 1 f stop apart. This covers the exposure range of the metered central value (which should produce a neutral gray negative) plus and minus 5 f stops. You will get a good idea of what is going on by visually examining the film after it is developed.

    It is a good idea to use a lens aperture which allows you to make all (or nearly all) the exposures by only adjusting the shutter speed.

    Hope this gets you started.
    Tom Hoskinson
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    Everything is analog - even digital :D

  5. #5
    marko_trebusak's Avatar
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    Thank you very much, all!

    Now lets do some work with this thing!

    Marko



 

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