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  1. #11

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    Thanks for the replies on paper developers, some very helpful comments here. I mixed up some Dektol stock solution last night, but from the comments posted here, I think I should try LPD for the prints I'm making on Ilford Pearl Warmtone RC paper.

    Dale

  2. #12
    kapro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Bertilsson View Post
    My printing system is based on Fomabrom 112 and LPD, though, so if I switched paper developers, I would have to start working on how I develop my negatives again.

    Thanks,

    - Thomas
    Hi Thomas,

    are you able to compare Fomabrom with Forte's Bromofort B 10. It's my beloved paper and I have couple of hundreds sheets yet. It seems I'll have to consider new baryta graded matt paper this year since my Bromofort will be gone... I'm looking for most similar paper. Suppose Fomabrom could be solution.. Have you ever tried Fomabrom with Amidol or Ansco 130? If yes, what's your opinion?
    K.

  3. #13
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapro View Post
    Hi Thomas,

    are you able to compare Fomabrom with Forte's Bromofort B 10. It's my beloved paper and I have couple of hundreds sheets yet. It seems I'll have to consider new baryta graded matt paper this year since my Bromofort will be gone... I'm looking for most similar paper. Suppose Fomabrom could be solution.. Have you ever tried Fomabrom with Amidol or Ansco 130? If yes, what's your opinion?
    K.
    Hello K,

    Since Forte is no longer, I can't compare them.
    The Foma paper has a long range, and a beautiful neutral color. It curls a lot when drying, so getting it flat is sometimes an issue.

    While I have used Weston's Amidol and loved it with Emaks paper, I ascribe improvements of my prints to technique. Switching to replenished LPD was mostly for practical reasons, but it also yields incredible open shadows, and highlights that can tolerate very high contrast negs.
    130 is great too, but I've stopped ascribing magic to print developers.
    The only thing I stay away from is really soft working developers, and sometimes I would like a colder tone in the prints, but in the end it's the tonality of the finished print that matters, and in that regard I cannot pick Amidol over 130 or LPD. Just pick one for your printing system and make lots of prints. They're all fantastic.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  4. #14

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    Great info with great timing, Thanks guys!

    Question though, based on this older thread about LPD, is it still temp optimal / critical in use?

    http://www.apug.org/forums/viewpost.php?p=218190

  5. #15
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    I use it down to about 60*F without ill effect. It's slower, but prints are highly similar to higher temp ones.

    It's best if you can keep the chemistry at about 70*F for consistency, though.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Bertilsson View Post
    I use it down to about 60*F without ill effect. It's slower, but prints are highly similar to higher temp ones.

    It's best if you can keep the chemistry at about 70*F for consistency, though.
    The space is going to be cold in the Winter, what is the best way to keep the trays themselves warm enough?

  7. #17
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PKM-25 View Post
    The space is going to be cold in the Winter, what is the best way to keep the trays themselves warm enough?
    I use a hot water bath. Others use electric warmers.
    I am yet to meet an electric warmer that takes the chemistry up to 70 degrees from my darkroom's ambient temperature of 45 degrees, hence the water bath.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  8. #18
    brian steinberger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PKM-25 View Post
    The space is going to be cold in the Winter, what is the best way to keep the trays themselves warm enough?
    My darkroom is in the basement so it's cool all year long, but especially cool in the winter. I mix the developer in a large glass graduate and put into a hot water bath to bring up to 70 degrees. I then pour into the tray. Under the tray I use a heating pad that I bought at walmart. It has 4 heat settings and depending on how cold the ambient air temperature is in the darkroom I pick the correct setting to keep the developer at, or atleast very close to 70 degrees.

  9. #19
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
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    I have been using the same Dektol in my darkrooms for 35+ years. I think its good stuff.

    Quote Originally Posted by images39 View Post
    Thanks for the replies on paper developers, some very helpful comments here. I mixed up some Dektol stock solution last night, but from the comments posted here, I think I should try LPD for the prints I'm making on Ilford Pearl Warmtone RC paper.

    Dale

  10. #20
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Dektol works well but once mixed to working strength it has a very short tray life, and not much longer even poured back into a full bottle.

    I had last printed in November, and poured my working strength LPD back into a plastic bottle, squeezed the air out and capped it. I next printed the weekend of January 17th, and the solution was still fine.

    I wish I had time to print more often but that's only a bit unusual. LPD is great for life of the working solution.

    I've been using Ilford Warm Tone with MGWT paper too, and it seems to keep nearly as well at working strength. I haven't compared it yet to a higher, warmer dilution of LPD for warm tones.

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