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  1. #11

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    hi yoriko

    if you can find henry horenstien's book it might be helpful
    http://www.amazon.com/Beyond-Basic-P.../dp/0316373125

    no fancy machines are necessary
    john

  2. #12
    Willie Jan's Avatar
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    Mostly you will need to overexpose the film a little bit to compensate your light measurement and shutter speed inaccuracy. So this depends on your method and gear. that is why you must do some tests to find out what is best for your situation

  3. #13
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    The way I was taught to make proof sheets was to make a test strip for each new film and to pick the exposure time where the sprocket holes finally disappeared. Of course, this assumes you're shooting 35mm. If you're using a different film format, I'd say expose to the point where the edges are no longer distinguishable.
    "When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." - HST
    My Flickr Gallery

  4. #14
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    Yoriko:

    There is nothing silly about your question at all!

    Do you know anyone else who uses film and has the experience to be able to evaluate your negatives? If so, ask them to look at your negatives for you, and give you some advice on how to do it yourself.

    Don't forget to consider people who work in camera stores or photo labs. If there are night school or similar courses available that cover film use, that would be a great choice too.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  5. #15
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    This is definitely not a silly question. Not asking is silly.

    I remember hearing [no I do not remember the source] that a properly exposed and developed negative is thick enough to have dark areas and think enough to read a printed page through the darkest areas. Comments on this from others, please.

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  6. #16
    MattKing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius Glass View Post
    This is definitely not a silly question. Not asking is silly.

    I remember hearing [no I do not remember the source] that a properly exposed and developed negative is thick enough to have dark areas and think enough to read a printed page through the darkest areas. Comments on this from others, please.

    Steve
    You will find this suggestion in a number of different locations. Some of the older Kodak publications come to mind. I think though that the reference is to newspaper type, rather than just type on a printed page.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  7. #17
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattKing View Post
    You will find this suggestion in a number of different locations. Some of the older Kodak publications come to mind. I think though that the reference is to newspaper type, rather than just type on a printed page.
    Thank you. I would stand corrected, but I am sitting at my computer now.
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  8. #18
    CBG
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    Those are good questions. Not silly at all.

    We can be most helpful when we know how you are working in the darkroom, and how you will be making finished prints. Any more information from you will be useful.

    The best way we can help - and for you to know - is for you to make a darkroom style enlargement if you are going to be making that kind of enlargements, a contact print if the end result you want will be contact prints, or a scan if you will be outputting via computer printer. Proof sheets are maybe-sort of-helpful, but you will learn the most from actually doing the process. Nothing substitutes for the real thing.

    When you get those results, come back and share what you get with us and we'll be able to help you further. If you can post a jpg of the results that's helpful. If you can't, then tell us what you are getting. In either case, the more you tell us about what you are doing and how you are doing it, the more we can be informative. Of course, if you have any other questions in the meantime, we'd love to help!

    When you are starting it is normal to have some disappointing results as you sort out what to do. Don't get discouraged!

  9. #19

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    Thanks for the quick replies everyone. I was amazed at how many people replied to my seemingly 'silly' thread.

    Thanks for the links, I'll post some scans later (hope it does justice to my negatives).

    --

    After taking a look at http://www.ephotozine.com/article/as...negatives-4682

    I can say mine looks somewhere between the left and middle column of the middle row, steering more towards the left column.

    Same goes for the proofs (the positives)
    Last edited by Yoricko; 02-13-2011 at 07:58 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  10. #20

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    I agree with the statement that a properly exposed negative should allow you to easily print properly.

    Now for the cheat, find a properly exposed photo in D format and invert in an editing program, even MS paint can invert colors, that would be a properly exposed negative. You could also shoot the same shot in D while shooting with film and if it is properly exposed invert it and compare to your negative for instant feedback. While D is not a proper medium for making long lasting photos, I find it is a great tool for helping you learn things like this rather quickly. If your film negative is darker you need less exposure, too thin more exposure or a little more developing time, but I recommend adjusting exposure rather than processing, it is far easier to adjust the camera than it is to adjust your process.
    "Would you like it if someone that painted in oils told you that you were not making portraits because you were using a camera?"
    "Shouldn't it be more about the joy of producing and viewing the photo than what you paid for the camera?"

    Me

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