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  1. #11

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    Laura, you're quite right about it being London, and I might give HP5+ a whirl before long. I figured I'd stick with one film until I got the details dialed in, but once that happens it might be time to let my hair down a bit. As for the above images, I selected the ones I was least happy with and posted them without any post-processing to give people a feel for the raw material, so to speak. I tend to shoot more 'street photography' (I really hate that term), which means grass, and swans and water play a fairly minimal role in the proceedings. It also means a lot of stone, skin and concrete feature in my photos, and those substances tend to respond better to contrast boosts than do trees and grass...fortunately. And by better, I mean more believably (assuming the changes are made with restraint). I find post a complete bore, and accordingly try to get things right in camera to the greatest extent possible, which probably explains why I find this scanning business a bit odious at the moment.
    Thanks for the suggestions!

  2. #12
    Paul VanAudenhove's Avatar
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    As has been mentioned, the best way to see what your negatives are capable of, is to print them. I would take Rick up on his kind offer to print them so you will have a better idea example of what can be produced from a negative. I was taught that to look for under development you should examine the film markings, ie film type and frame numbers. Under development makes them look grey instead of black.

    Looking at your screen name, can I assume you are a Stephen Leacock fan?

  3. #13

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    Ha! Now it's not every day one comes across a person who's heard of Leacock, let alone is able to recognise his touch in a screen name. Well done. It goes to show that Canada has the most clever citizenry in the world. Not to mention the best looking, most amusing and most virile. (Excepting, of course, those poor Newfies.) Did I mention I'm Canadian m'self?
    The film markings are fine, nice and black, so I guess it all boils down to my being a fussbudget who's relying on a questionable scanner to remedy his lack of time for proper printing. The scanned Tri-X images I've seen and liked have all been scanned with Nikon Coolscans, Hassy Flextights and other such things that do more justice to the diminutive 35mm negs. I've considered switching to MF, but I've been shooting with Leica Ms for a few years now, and their size/quality ratio is a damn hard thing to give up. The chief advantage of the M6 over other, larger analog options was that I could use my Leica glass, and that's a pretty big advantage!

  4. #14

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    Negatives look fine to me. I can see scene 1 was an extremely bright scene and on scene 2, you had a back lit condition evident by some flare at the top. When you print this, you will see higher contrast as there is no way paper can express this much dynamic range. In scenes like this, I don't think under-exposing by a stop or so makes any difference since there isn't that much shadow detail to show anyhow.

    My suggestion is to print them (with your choice of media) and then worry about contrast.
    Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?

  5. #15
    Paul VanAudenhove's Avatar
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    Thank you! But it's not just Canuks, you'll find that there's a great bunch of people here! I got heavily into Leacock when I was in junior high - and read everything. Comic Lorne Elliot has stolen from him too - the title of his CBC radio show 'Madly Off in all Directions.' If I remember the bit correctly from Leacock, it was about a prince looking for his love: He flung himself out of the room, flung himself out of the castle, flung himself onto his horse. And rode madly off in all directions at once.

    Make sure you stock up on film - the most common mantra here is 'get out and shoot!' lol

  6. #16

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    Jan 2005
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    TRIX IN XTOL HELP

    I read the posts with interest. I have used xtol stock/replenished on Delta 400 and other Ilford films, find the contrast etc much to my liking. That in 35mm (also Leica). I do mostly scanning and ink printing but do have a darkroom for wet printing.
    As my experience with xtol is pretty new, all I can say is you might try stock at 7 minutes with your agitation regimen, and see how you like the negs from that.

    Sandy King is the resident guru on developing negatives for scanning, so you might ask him.

  7. #17

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    Your negs are fine. Use curves in Photoshop or Gimp to set your white point, black point and adjust the curve. I usually click in the middle to hold the middle tones and then click on the left and pull down to deepen shadows and increase contrast.
    Steve Long

    my blog: http://wayofuncertainty.com/

  8. #18

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    Thanks for the feedback everyone. Curves adjustments definitely improve the images, but they can only do so much given the dynamic range conundrum. There comes a point when the contrast overwhelms the frame and makes the image look too artificial for my tastes. I'll check out what Sandy King has said on the matter, and maybe the best thing to do is just use my scanner to give myself an approximation of what the pictures I made look like, then hire a more powerful machine for a couple of hours to scan the greatest hits. Gosh, everyone here's so nice...

  9. #19

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    Did you scan to rbg color or grayscale? Rgb color will give you more latitude when manipulating curves.
    Steve Long

    my blog: http://wayofuncertainty.com/

  10. #20

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    Steve, I scanned to grayscale, but I'll try rgb. That's good advice, thanks!
    Anyhow, the negatives are all I care about, and general consensus has it that they're fine. I'll leave the scanning issues to a different, non-analog forum. I really appreciate the feedback everyone.

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