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  1. #71
    brian steinberger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jglass View Post

    I would like to hear from those of you who have used MGWT with LPD, if any.

    Jeff
    Jeff, before I started using 130 all I used was LPD with MGWT. I have much experience with this combo. I used LPD 1:4 and developed for 2 minutes. It's all I used to know, but now that I have more experience I don't like that combo much anymore. It was too warm. The image is very green coming out of the fixer. Once selenium toned it was ok. When split sepia toned it would take on just a beautiful color though. But if you're going to selenium tone after sepia watch out, the color will run away on you going a reddish-orange-brown color, very nice for certain things! What I do like LPD and MGWT for is split selenium toning. Since the image is very greenish, I selenium tone at 1:9 for about 6-8 minutes, each print deserves its own time depending on when the split takes place, but the results are wonderful, rich brownish-purple shadows splitting against cold green gray highlights. Check out my gallery on here, I have quite a few uploads of prints using LPD and MGWT.

    I much prefer 130 now though. Un-toned prints have a nicer, more neutral tone to them and when selenium toning after sepia the shadows don't change right to brown. I have some cold tone developers coming tomorrow. I'm excited to try these with MGWT hoping to cool the paper even more. I'll let everyone know the details.

  2. #72
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    If you didn't like LPD at 1+4 - the developer changes as you alter dilution. Try LPD at 1+1 or replenished for something completely different. Both color wise as well as contrast. It gets colder as you decrease dilution and contrast increases. It's why I love LPD so much - it's easy to adjust to get what you want. Although I mostly use it replenished, I also usually have a gallon of fresh stock to mix single shot from if I need something different.

    - Thomas
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  3. #73

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Grant View Post
    Warmtone papers get colder over time, they didn't before the Cadmium was removed from them. Some shift more than others but I noticed a very significant shift in the Ilford Warmtone I used last November compared to a year or so earlier...........

    Ian
    That's interesting. I have recently decided to use some MGWT for a project. I bought some, and found that I already had bought a box to try some time previously. I use ID-78 which is to some degree a warm tone developer. (Actually I use potassium carbonate instead of the sodium carbonate, adjusted for MW) which should make it a bit warmer.

    I found the warm tone very subtle indeed. Warm enough for me, but I was surprised that it wasn't anything like the old Agfa Record Rapid (I'm showing my age) of the 1960s, or like a toned print.

    One explanation might be that here, almost the end of the Earth (only New Zealand is further away) the age of stock is often problematical.

  4. #74
    Colin Corneau's Avatar
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    I certainly notice Ilford's Warmtone paper tones much quicker and more noticeably than MGIV-FB. I mostly selenium tone and I didn't see much difference at all (even in the darker midtones and shadows) on MGIV-FB...not so with the Warmtone.

    Warmtone is probably my favorite paper, and one I'm most familiar with. That said, I sometimes find it almost greenish, in a very subtle way, without toning - be it mild sepia and/or selenium afterwards.

    I love playing around with other papers (notably Oriental) but Ilford's my mainstay.
    "Never criticize someone until you've walked a mile in their shoes. That way, you're a mile away and you've got their shoes."

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  5. #75

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    Dear Thomas....

    120 seconds.....!!!! In an earlier life, long ago doing Cibachrome ( now ILFOCHROME ) mural prints on a horizontal enlarger it was not unusual to open the lens, go for lunch, then come back and put the lens cap back on, I'm not kidding, I tell you what you rarely did more than one test print!

    Simon. ILFORD Photo HARMAN technology LImited :

  6. #76
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by john_s View Post
    That's interesting. I have recently decided to use some MGWT for a project. I bought some, and found that I already had bought a box to try some time previously. I use ID-78 which is to some degree a warm tone developer. (Actually I use potassium carbonate instead of the sodium carbonate, adjusted for MW) which should make it a bit warmer.

    I found the warm tone very subtle indeed. Warm enough for me, but I was surprised that it wasn't anything like the old Agfa Record Rapid (I'm showing my age) of the 1960s, or like a toned print.

    One explanation might be that here, almost the end of the Earth (only New Zealand is further away) the age of stock is often problematical.
    ID-78 is a very good warm-tone developer, it gives me identical results to Agfa Neutol WA. I substitute Potassium Carbonate and a little Sodium Hydroxide for the Sodium Carbonate and make up a much more concentrated stock solution.

    Unfortunately no modern Warmtone papers get remotely close to the older Record Rapid with cadmium in it, that disappeared in the late 1980's.

    I found that Ilford MG Warmtone did give me very warm tones when reasonably fresh, but later cooled off very significantly. My Forte Polywarmtone from the last production run before closure has cooled off slightly but over a longer time and not as significantly.

    At some point later this year I have to decide what to use once my Polywarmtone runs out, at the moment that could be Ilford Warmtone, Adox MCC or Fomatone MG.

    Ian

  7. #77
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
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    Thomas my pm functon is off , but could you please send me an email.
    I tried you earlier but it bounced back

    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Bertilsson View Post
    That's an interesting observation. I can't remember exactly now, since it's been a few years since I printed on Agfa MCC, but I can't really remember having problems reaching maximum contrast with it.
    Would you say that is a correct observation? If so, the MCC emulsion that ADOX uses is not the same as the old Agfa.

    Anyway, I also agree with your notion that larger prints on MGWT can take a ridiculously long time, entering reciprocity failure territory. My new (to me) Leitz Focomat V35 enlarger only has a 75W bulb in it. Making a 16x20" print the other day I had a main exposure of 120 seconds at f/2.8 on the Focotar lens, and the burning exercises were several minutes long. Fortunately the Focotar is a good lens, which holds up well at f/2.8 even at 16x magnification, but it was definitely a test of my patience.

  8. #78
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Carnie View Post
    Thomas my pm functon is off , but could you please send me an email.
    I tried you earlier but it bounced back
    Email sent, Bob. (I have shut down one or two of my email addresses, so that might be why).
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  9. #79

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Bertilsson View Post
    If you didn't like LPD at 1+4 - the developer changes as you alter dilution. Try LPD at 1+1 or replenished for something completely different. Both color wise as well as contrast. It gets colder as you decrease dilution and contrast increases. It's why I love LPD so much - it's easy to adjust to get what you want. Although I mostly use it replenished, I also usually have a gallon of fresh stock to mix single shot from if I need something different.

    - Thomas
    I've been using LPD 1:1 with MGWT lately. Also, have used 130 1:1 with it and both combinations are wonderful...

  10. #80

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    I've used a fair amount of both these papers, but I prefer the regular MGIV to its warmtone brother. The Ilford warmtone product is not particularly warm toned, but MGIV is a very good cool - neutral color. I don't usually tone my prints, and that may be the difference that causes my preference. I recently compared the results using these Ilford products to a number of other currently available papers, and the Ilford product is consistently and decidedly better.



 

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