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  1. #21
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    Use a grainy film. I'd try Delta 3200 for a huge wash of grain (actually an ISO 1000 film, so bear that in mind when re-rating it) or HP5 for a sharper grain that appears to be a part of the objects in the frame, as opposed to a wash of grain over the image. Overexpose the heck out of your film – at least three stops, and the more the better, until the point where you lose too much contrast. Process for a long time in a developer with a low concentration of silver solvent. You can get long times by diluting developer. You can also get low concentrations of silver solvent by dilution, and/or the use of Rodinal. You can also use hot developer, temperature changes, and/or excessive agitation to purposefully mess up your emulsion. Print high contrast prints to accentuate sharp grain to its fullest. Print low contrast prints for the washed over look. You can also lith print if you don't mind the hues and tonality you get.

    IME HP5 is much grainier than new Tri-X; the Tri-X is amazingly soft-grained now, despite its reputation for grain. It's been pretty hard for me to screw it up purpose, so I use those two films I mentioned instead. I can get excessive grain from HP5 simly by using HC-110 dilution H as opposed to dilution B.
    Last edited by 2F/2F; 03-17-2011 at 01:57 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  2. #22
    darkosaric's Avatar
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    I have used Ilford delta 3200 with Rodinal 1+10 (yes: 1+10 ) - and agitate strong and constantly for 4 minutes to get big grain. Here is example:

    http://darkosaric.deviantart.com/art...ik-3-110101262

    I think with Tmax 3200 you can get even bigger grain than with delta 3200.

  3. #23
    Stephen Frizza's Avatar
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    Kodak D-19 does extraordinary things to film at warm temperature. i love playing with high speed films and D-19.
    "Its my profession to hijack time" ~ Stephen Frizza.

  4. #24

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    There are three things to consider about grain - its size, its shape, and its appearance. The first, size, is almost entirely a function of the film, and you can't do much about it. Almost all films today are quite fine grained - have small grain. The very high speed films are grainier, but still much less so than in earlier days. Gainer may have had the best advice for getting large grain - shoot 35mm, stand back, and enlarge a lot. The shape of the grain is a function of both the film and the developer. TMax P3200 has little golf balls; with FP-4 it's more like daggers. High sulfite developers often produce filamentary clumps. I have no real advice here. It's largely a matter of experience with various film-developer combinations. Appearance is partly a matter of the film but is very much affected by the developer. Fine grain developers like D-76 and D-23 tend to soften the edges of the grain and make it less apparent. Rodinal leaves the grain very sharp. Highly dilute developers seem to leave things more sharp than concentrated developers. The advice above on films and developers is good. I would probably go for either Delta 3200 of Tri-X developed in Rodinal.

  5. #25
    lxdude's Avatar
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    Using an enlarger with a point light source will maximize accentuation of grain when enlarging.
    I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
    When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.

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