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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Apr 2003
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    Stavanger - Norway
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    MACO UP 100 pluss (Cachet?)

    Anyone got experience to share about this film? How to expose, developer & suitable time, and what to expect?

    I just recieved a 10-pack (135) and plan on using it for general nature/outdoor coastal photography trough a gloomey Scandinavian winter ... I'll primarely be using a Voigtlander Skopar 21mm.

    http://www.henning-jansen.com/portfolios
    Last edited by jansenh; 09-17-2004 at 06:10 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Henning Jansen
    Stavanger - Norway

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    601
    This is Efke 100 repackaged in a Maco box. Look up Efke 100 and you will find lots of information.

  3. #3
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Yes,

    JandC actually had some of this for sale a while ago, dirt cheap. Presoak comes out blue just like the Efke stuff.
    Does really well in Rodinal 1+50 for 9min, while exposed at E.I.50. Agitate gently.


    - Thomas
    Saint Paul, MN
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  4. #4
    david b's Avatar
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    the stuff curled like crazy. I don't remember the development but a photo I shot with the film is here at

    http://www.davidbram.com/page3.htm

  5. #5
    Aggie's Avatar
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    HC110 for 5 min. @70F in B solution it turned out just fine. I shot it at ISO 50 and then pushed it a step on another roll. that I processed for 5 1/2 minutes and it turned out just fine also.
    Non Digital Diva

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    England
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    Well,

    I'm a novice with this but I bought a pack of 10 and tried it out anyway. Sheet film that is. I had tried it in 35mm and it curled like mad.

    Is it true that this is old technology film and doesn't have the hardening agents to preserve it during the wash? Maybe a bit of Ilford hardener will help stop the curl or even firm up the negs (don't even mention Ilford!).

    The sheet film stuff is fine when rated 100ISO and dev. in HC110b like Aggie says.

    All the hoo-haa. It don't look too exciting to me. No mid-tone luxuries even at sheet format. Maybe I'm not doing it right. I think I'm barking up the wrong tree - I should've taken every other gents and ladies advice and bought some Ilford FP4 when it was still around.


    Cheers,

    Tom

    "But what do I know? At least that's what people say to me. "

  7. #7

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    Aug 2004
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    England
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    Jdef -

    It'll cost me a fortune in customs charges to ship a few boxes of rebranded FP4+ from the States. I had a hunt around a few photo retailers today and couldn't find any FP4+ in sheet format (actually, most didn't do sheet format). I put an order for a few boxes in a mail company over a week ago and its still on back-order. There always seems to be a lot of Kodak TMax everywhere I go, but if I'm going to get a poor tonal range, I might as well use Maco 100UP which costs a fraction of the TMax. Maybe I'll try Huggy's formula with rodinal - somehow I seem to get better results with rodinal than HC110b, especially for slower film.

    At the minute I have a box of Bergger which I'm going to start playing with. At the end of the year, I'll decide which film brand is the keeper (no thanks TMax!)

  8. #8
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    In regards to the curling tendencies, it never really happened like that to me. When I dry film, I hang it over a humidifier with the fan blowing up. Even the worst curling films were never a problem for me.

    I should add that it doesn't seem to matter whether I use acid or alkaline fixer.

    - Thomas
    Saint Paul, Minnesota
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    601
    Curling with these films is because of the type of film base used and has nothing to do with the emulsion itself. Fixer choices will not make a difference. As Thomas suggested, slow drying is the key. The less humid the more the curl. Drying at higher humidity ususally eliminates this effect.

  10. #10
    david b's Avatar
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    Well, I am at 7000 feet above sea level here in Santa Fe and the humidity level is usually around 25 percent, if we are lucky. Guess I should look for a small humidified if I use this film.



 

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