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  1. #1

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    Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent

    In the past, I've always bought the packet of Kodak HCA that made about 1L of stock solution, which makes 1.25 gallons of working solution, I think. B&H now no longer offers this size and I read that Kodak stopped making it and now only sells the packet that makes 1 gallon of stock solution (5 gallons working solution!). The last time I ordered, I got the 1 gallon pack without even realizing it. I guess I didn't notice that the small packet had been discontinued and just ordered the large one, thinking that it was the small one.

    Well, there is no way that I can use 1 gallon of HCA stock solution in 3 months, which is about how long it lasts after it's mixed, according to Kodak. I know that it's not recommended that people separate developers like D-76 into smaller amounts for mixing, as the various ingredients are probably not uniformly dispersed in the powder, but is the same thing true or as critical when dealing with Kodak HCA? I've looked into other wash aids on B&H's website, but the pricing on those is just ridiculous. To me, the 1L Kodak HCA stock solution packet was the perfect size and I was able to easily use it in 3 months when developing film. Oh, and I'm using Kodak's powdered Fixer, which has a hardener, so that's why I need HCA. So, can I somehow weigh out about a quart's worth of the HCA powder and put the other 3/4into separate packages for later use? Has anyone here done that, or is it also not recommended?

  2. #2

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    Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent

    Hello Mike: You can always mix HCA yourself.I believe it consists of equal portions of Sodium Sufite and Sodium BiSulfite in 1L of water.You might trying a search here at APUG to confirm this or google Hypo Clearing agent.It might be cheaper than buying it off the shelf.

    Doug

  3. #3

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    Don't sweat it. You can make your own hypo clearing agent very cheaply and easily in whatever portions you need. The formula from unblinkingeye.com follows, but you can do without the sodium bisulfite. Scale the formula down to make only as much as you need to last a week or so and you're good to go.

    From unblinkingeye.com

    Hypo Clearing Agent

    Water (125º F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 ml
    Sodium Sulfite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 g
    Sodium bisulfite*. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 g
    Water to make . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 liter

    Dilute 1:9 for use.
    Frank Schifano

  4. #4

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    BTW, you don't need HCA, even with Kodak powdered fixer. You just need to wash for 20 minutes! I had to do this once when I went to develop and realized I was out of HCA. I probably used more water that session than I did in the previous 5.
    "Panic not my child, the Great Yellow Father has your hand"--Larry Dressler

  5. #5
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    Lecacy Pro makes a pouch of powder that makes one qt. of stock, like the Kodak kit you are used to using. It is my standard HCA, basically for the reasons you mentioned. You can get it from Freestyle for under $3. Or you can buy the powders and make it yourself. It's as easy as D-23 to make.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

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  6. #6

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    Don't need it if you use a fixer such as TF-4 for paper. Never need it for film. Ilford wash method is quick and saves water.

  7. #7

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    Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent

    Thanks! I guess I'll either look into getting the Legacy Pro packet or buy ingredients to mix myself. I'm inclined to stick with Kodak fixer and a hypo clearing agent because that's what I used back when I was in high school. So, it's part nostalgia, I guess.

  8. #8
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    You can also get various liquid concentrates that will last longer than the three months and just mix as needed. I use Heico Perma-Wash.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Pieper View Post
    ... I know that it's not recommended that people separate developers like D-76 into smaller amounts for mixing, as the various ingredients are probably not uniformly dispersed in the powder, but is the same thing true or as critical when dealing with Kodak HCA?...
    It is not at all critical. You can divide the powder.

    If you want to make it yourself, you have several options, in increasing order of sophistication. These are for stock, to be diluted 1+9 for use.

    One Ingredient: sodium sulfite 200g/L.

    Two Ingredients: add sodium bisulfite or metabisulfite, anything from Frank's suggestion above up to 40g/L (see Richard Knoppow). The advantage over one-ingredient formula is a different pH that is supposed to optimize washing.

    Three Ingredients: add Sodium citrate 4g, or according to some, 10gram. See Wolfgang Moersch's formula here

    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/3...-any-good.html


    Four Ingredients: add EDTA tetra-sodium salt 10 grams

    The three- and four-ingredient formulae are either supposed to last longer in use diluted, or handle different water qualities better. The Kodak version is reputed to be the four-ingredient version.

    Given Wolfgang Moersch's reputation as a photo chemist and manufacturer, I think going with his formula would be more than safe.

    Straight sodium sulfite is also excellent and simple.
    Last edited by john_s; 04-05-2011 at 02:40 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: addition, and clarification.

  10. #10
    JOSarff's Avatar
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    Try a bottle of Heico Perma-wash. Great stuff, better and easier to use than KHCA

    Joe
    There is no such thing as taking too much time, because your soul is in that picture. -Ruth Bernhard

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