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  1. #11

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    I use it since the mid of the seventies
    Calbe A 49, diluted 1+1.
    The sharpness of this developer will increase a lot when diluting.

    http://www.calbe-chemie.de/prod/pdf/...ler%20(GB).pdf

    A pretty toxid, old type developer ingredients like you can see in above SDS PDF file.
    My favorite store: http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl

  2. #12
    piu58's Avatar
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    Dear Andreas,

    my main problems with R80s are not concerned with sharpness but with empty shadows and blocked highlights. The A49 cures both. You get 50 ASA real speed which quite a lot for such a high definition film.
    I printed up to 40x30 cm² from 35 mm. You can see hints of grain mostly in the sky if you look close. But I don't see any muddy borderlines.
    ---
    Uwe Pilz

  3. #13
    ath
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    Thanks, Uwe. I'm in the same boat regarding the s-slope of this film. Time to try A49 I guess...
    Regards,
    Andreas

  4. #14
    JPR
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    Hi all, so I guess I am reviving this thread...

    I just tried RETRO 80S in DD-X and Rodinal. DD-X was not useful, Rodinal wasn't too bad for low contrast situations.

    I thought I would give Calbe A49 a try, but I can not find it. Did it turn into this: http://www.fotoimpex.de/shop/fotoche...10-filme.html#

    Thanks for any responses!!

    John

  5. #15
    piu58's Avatar
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    > Did it turn into this

    This is the same stuff.
    ---
    Uwe Pilz

  6. #16

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    Yes, they're supposed to be the same. I can't verify that having never used the Calbe version, but I can report that Atomal49 does in fact do a good job of taming the contrast, as has been claimed.
    Quote Originally Posted by JPR View Post
    I thought I would give Calbe A49 a try, but I can not find it. Did it turn into this: http://www.fotoimpex.de/shop/fotoche...10-filme.html#

    Thanks for any responses!!

    John
    Last edited by Denverdad; 03-24-2015 at 01:04 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #17

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    Try A49 1+1 (or even 1+2) with the Rollei Retro 80(S) / Aviphot 80 E1 from Agfa Gevaert. It is one of the best combinations. TDLC-103 1+0 is also not bad at all. In fact a modified low contrast Beutler type developer. Metol, Sodiumsulfite and Sodiumbicarbonate. Use it fresh because the Bicarbonate is not very stable.
    A49 is containing para- Phenylene Diamine, a toxid and very staining chemical. I still have some Calbe packages left from my visit in East Berlin in 1988. I somehow had to get rid of that East Mark which were in fact worthless when returning ....



    Indeed: Allied Checkpoint Charlie.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 8443960959_2c1ded7816_z.jpg  
    My favorite store: http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl

  8. #18
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    In 2012 I tried the R80S thinking to use it, slit, in a Minox. We were staying in France. Here are 2 from a Voightlander R-2 and a Snapshot 25mm. EI 80.
    To develop I knew I had to reduce contrast somehow - I actually like grays. So I ran the only roll in 1:1:250 of Rodinal:hc110:water at 20Deg as a stand for 1 hr.
    I think it is probably like Rodinal with pH reduction and sulphide added. I expected more 'snap' a la Rodinal but the hc110 isn't one of Kodak's sharpest of developers (by their own admission).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails St Emilion.jpg   Untitled-20.jpg  

  9. #19
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  10. #20
    JPR
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    Thanks for the comments all! I don't really want to hi-jack this thread, so I am thinking to start a thread about experiences with this film.

    So far I have tried Rodinal and DD-X. Next I think I will try Acurol-N, when I do I will post on another thread!

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