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Thread: Grey Prints

  1. #51

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    2F/2F and eddie

    Yes, that was the situation yesterday, since then I'm fairly sure that I have found a light leak and after closing that today and getting ride of the contaminated paper; I now seem to be able to develop for 2 minutes plus.

    I wil get some rubylith and hunt down the rest of the elusive light leaks.

    With regard to dodging and burning you are correct and that is still an issue, that I'll try to work through during the week, print size is 4" x 6" f stop is one stop down from wide open on a standard enlarging lens. (Sorry can't remeber the f number of the top of my head).
    Last edited by andyaitken; 07-02-2011 at 05:37 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #52
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by andyaitken View Post
    (with a 3 grade ilford filter in) then the subsequent image is within the grey midtone range consistently either light or dark.
    Try the 4 or 5 filter. If still too gray, increase development by 20 to 25% on you next film.

  3. #53

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    This Massodax analyser/meter sounds intriguing but like others here I do not understand how it is calibrated or how it recommends from the neg's analysis what the correct paper grade is.

    As long as it helps you get to a correct exposure and grade then "it works ". As we are analogue "anoraks"here - well I am - then an explanation as to how it works in a separate thread would be appreciated when you have the time.

    It sounds old and is likely, I suspect, to be more primitive than more modern analysers. If you ever decide that it doesn't match up to your ever increasing B&W printing requirements then such machines as the Philips analysers are worth considering. I have the PDT 2020 which is easy to use and gives both recommended exposure and grade. This or the 2015 come up on e-bay occasionally at quite reasonable prices.


    If you are fully committed to B&W printing then the ultimate analyser/meter is the RH Designs ones.


    pentaxuser

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