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  1. #61
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    I bought some 130 years ago from the Formulary but oddly enough didn't get around to mixing it up. I wonder if the powder is still good? We're talking 1998 here.

    Be that as it may, the limitation to me always seemed the price. It may last forever, but it sure is expensive, at least when bought from the Formulary. Probably mixed yourself (but don't you have to get glycin from the Formulary too?) it's less so, but that's a hassle I don't need.

    We are talking the one that PF sells as F130, correct? This one:

    http://stores.photoformulary.com/-st...ley/Detail.bok

    LPD has been readily available, much cheaper, and lasted long enough but I might try 130.

    Years ago a friend used a developer called Printofine later renamed Posifine, made by the Acufine/Diafine people. I tried it and didn't care for it - a bit warm and low contrast for my taste IIRC, but it did last even longer than LPD. I don't think it's available any longer though.

  2. #62

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    roger,
    that's the stuff !
    its expensive but some say worth every penny ..
    ( i have used it to process film for the past 10? years )
    the formulary is the only place left to make glycin,
    so you might have to get some more before you mix it up ..
    (the glycin might be bad if you didn't freeze it, and its not white and fluffy ... )

    - john
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  3. #63
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    I think 130 is expensive the way Pyrocat is expensive - it only seems like it until you realize exactly how many prints you get out of a batch. A set of Pyrocat HD 500ml bottles is about $20 from Bostick & Sullivan, which sounds expensive compared to say D-76, but don't forget that you use it at extremely small dilutions - 1:1:100 is my normal mix. With 130, you mix a quart of working stock, dilute it 1:3 which makes a gallon, and as I said before, you can get several dozen 8x10 prints and a bunch of 16x20s out of a single mix, and it won't go bad on you no matter how slow you are in using it. The stuff can oxidize until it is black as tar, but it will still work. Think about how many batches of Dektol you'd have to mix in order to make the same number of prints in the same period of time. You'd have to make 3-4 times as much Dektol, at which point the money would be a net wash, and you'd still have to tone your prints to get rid of the Dektol green tone from the bromides.

  4. #64
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    One more little horn toot for LPD. You talk about economy.

    As replenished, you use 300ml of replenisher per 30 8x10 prints. There's a gallon of replenisher with each kit, and 300ml fits about 13 times into a gallon. 13x30 = 390. That's how many prints you get out of a gallon kit of Ethol LPD. For a ten dollar can of powder. Not bad. That's in round number three pennies per print.

    And it does last for at least six months. I always use it up before that, so I can't tell if it would last a year or not.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  5. #65
    PhotoJim's Avatar
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    Roger: Glycin doesn't keep well as a powder. However, you could get some fresh glycin and use the rest of the ingredients, most likely.

    Glycin apparently keeps well when frozen. I tend to just buy 100 grams of it at a time and mix up 9 litres of stock (which uses up 99 grams of it). That gives me a gram worth of waste as you always lose a little in the process.
    Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.

    Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?

  6. #66
    eddym's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PDH View Post
    I have grown found of Edwal Ultra Black, with shipping on the pricy side. Last time I was in LA I bought a case from Freestyle. Someone told me that Edwal stopped making most Photo Chem including Utra Black.
    Calumet shows it in stock. Since I can no longer obtain Zone VI print developer, I am looking for a substitute. Thought I might try some Ultra Black.
    Eddy McDonald
    www.fotoartes.com
    Eschew defenestration!

  7. #67

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Cole View Post
    I bought some 130 years ago from the Formulary
    Gee, that's really a long time ago! I love the English language.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  8. #68

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    No one's using LPD?

    LPD:
    Do an APUG search and check out this time and tested, general use developer for paper. It keeps forever in its can, and in the tray. I've got 10, one gallon cans on the shelf amongst others.

    Bob McCarthy

  9. #69
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yankeesnapper View Post
    LPD:
    Do an APUG search and check out this time and tested, general use developer for paper. It keeps forever in its can, and in the tray. I've got 10, one gallon cans on the shelf amongst others.

    Bob McCarthy
    Several people have named it in this thread.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  10. #70

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gerald C Koch View Post
    If you are interested in helping the environment you might be interested in using a developer that does not contain hydroquinone. This chemical is particularly toxic to fish should any get past sewage treatment. There are several ascorbate based print developers on the market. If you are interested in mixing your own I would suggest Ryuji Suzuki two formulas DS-14 and DS-15. An advantage of ascorbate print developers is that they produce greater detail than hydroquinone based ones. This is because ascorbate produces less infectous development than does hydroquinone. The difference is quite striking.
    I've just tried DS-14 on Ilford MGIV RC paper. I'm using phenidone(0.2g/L) to substitute Dimezone S(0.2g/L). It take about 4 minutes to finish development. It's quite warmth. May be I should reduce KBr concentration to reduce the warm tone effect. I wonder why it takes so long to finish the development. Any suggestion? Thanks.
    Last edited by ahock; 11-25-2012 at 12:41 PM. Click to view previous post history.

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