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  1. #11
    Jeff Bannow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Relayer View Post
    fix isn't required in this process
    Very interesting. Thanks.
    - Jeff (& sometimes Eva, too) - http://www.jeffbannow.com

  2. #12
    holmburgers's Avatar
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    FWIW, fixing is recommended by Haist and other authors too I'm sure. It shouldn't matter in theory since you've removed the negative silver image and developed the positive silver image, leaving no substantial amount of silver-halide.

    But, there are always a small number of silver-halide grains that are orders of magnitude less sensitive (if at all) to light, and thus don't develop. Haist recommends fixing, and the hardening aspect is an added (if not needed) bonus.
    If you are the big tree, we are the small axe

  3. #13

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    all silver halides that rest in emulsion after 1st developing sepia bath convert to Ag2S. nothing to fix

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Relayer View Post
    sepia bw-slide step by step:
    1) developing
    2) stop
    3) sepia fogging developer 3min:
    Thiourea 5g
    NaOH 10g
    Water 1l
    4) bleach 3-5min in:
    Potassium dichromate 12g
    Sulfuric acid 10ml
    Water 1l
    5) clearing bath 2min:
    Sodium sulfite 30g
    Water 1l
    6) wash
    What concentration of sulfuric acid should be used here?

  5. #15
    holmburgers's Avatar
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    1% sulfuric acid final solution is standard I believe; so usually when it's listed without a % you can assume they mean concentrated (96+%) unless otherwise stated.

    Relayer, you're probably right, and maybe more so given the sepia treatment, but there was more to Haist's push for fixing than I can't remember at the moment.
    If you are the big tree, we are the small axe

  6. #16

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    in all formulas used concentrated sulfuric acid

  7. #17

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    Got it. Thanks! This looks like the easiest way to make positive b/w. Thank you guys for posting this. Are there any downsides for using this method to make enlarged negatives for alt processes? Also, does this method require exposure adjustment?

  8. #18
    holmburgers's Avatar
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    Personally I don't think that the 2nd exposure or 2nd development is too difficult, but I don't have any sodium sulfide on hand.

    With Delta 100 & TXP320 I found that +1/2 or +1/3 EI worked best.
    If you are the big tree, we are the small axe

  9. #19
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    Personaly I use traditional selenium tone (1:3) after fix and wash. It works great. I looked at a fogging dev, but it really isn't that big of a deal for me. It also allows me to bail earlier when things don't work out.

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