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  1. #21
    eddie's Avatar
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    If the apron you're talking about is what I think it is (was), they were format specific. We used to call it lasagna... The only "lasagna" I ever saw was for 35mm. As Whitey said, the edges only touched the sprockets. They had to be used in a single reel tank, but worked well.

  2. #22
    Nicholas Lindan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Lyga View Post
    why Kodak, and ONLY Kodak allowed this fautly theory to 'develop'.
    Semi-stand development ... now what's the matter with that? Latest fad, I'd say. So hard to be so ahead of one's time when it comes to fashion, and then when the rest of the world finally catches up there is still more vilification to come. [insert smiley if you need one]
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  3. #23
    Nicholas Lindan's Avatar
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    I used to use an FR adjustable tank for this sort of thing. I imagine the Yankee would work just as well. They were swirly stick agitation tanks, and the reels have a habit of becoming fragile over the past 50-60 years.

    My FR has been long lost. If I had to replace it I would buy one of those Paterson clones (AP?? - blue lid instead of red) and go at it with a file and rasp.
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  4. #24
    Nicholas Lindan's Avatar
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    I seem to remember the apron system was originally developed for developing film that was up to 5" wide [and commensurately long] and be easily loaded on a reel. Even then the original apron 'reel' needed a special loading machine/box.
    DARKROOM AUTOMATION
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  5. #25
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Indeed, Kodak sold aprons for each size of popular film so that the dimples in the edges would only touch the edge of a given size.

    At KRL, we often were faced with processing long lengths of odd widths of film. This is how we did it:

    We got a large graduate cylinder (250 ml, 500 or 1L for example). We got a rod and hung a film clip on thee rod and then we hung the film, emulsion side out with both ends clipped to the rod, making a loop. We then took a "C" shaped metal weight and we hung it over the bottom of the film loop thereby reducing the apparent length by 1/2. So, 3 feet (about 1M) of film was reduced to 1.5 feet which fit in a 500 ml graduate very handily.

    Agitation was done by lift and drain using the metal rod with the clip attached.

    After the Photo Flo step, we removed the weight and unclipped one end to hang the film up to dry.

    Try it, it works. And this reminds me that Bill Troop and I were discussing a book or a series of articles on handy darkroom tips like this that I learned at EK.

    PE

  6. #26
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
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    Exactly what a Paris lab did except they stood over the vat and dipped the roll into the vat with weight on bottom.
    Master tech would do the first couple of minutes.
    then pass backwards to second techs handling a soft or hard dev.
    Second techs would finish off to Master tech time and correct bath
    then pass to stop tech, then pass to fix tech.
    Washing would go to much larger vats.



    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Indeed, Kodak sold aprons for each size of popular film so that the dimples in the edges would only touch the edge of a given size.

    At KRL, we often were faced with processing long lengths of odd widths of film. This is how we did it:

    We got a large graduate cylinder (250 ml, 500 or 1L for example). We got a rod and hung a film clip on thee rod and then we hung the film, emulsion side out with both ends clipped to the rod, making a loop. We then took a "C" shaped metal weight and we hung it over the bottom of the film loop thereby reducing the apparent length by 1/2. So, 3 feet (about 1M) of film was reduced to 1.5 feet which fit in a 500 ml graduate very handily.

    Agitation was done by lift and drain using the metal rod with the clip attached.

    After the Photo Flo step, we removed the weight and unclipped one end to hang the film up to dry.

    Try it, it works. And this reminds me that Bill Troop and I were discussing a book or a series of articles on handy darkroom tips like this that I learned at EK.

    PE

  7. #27
    Diapositivo's Avatar
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    This insertion on eBay seems to sell Hewes 35mm reels for Jobo 1500 tanks, but if you read the fine print, it also says:

    They are available in various sizes for use with main film formats, but we are always pleased to quote on special made-to-order spirals to suit your particular needs

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hewes-Stee...-/290592304341

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  8. #28

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    you could always get a long tank or a long tube and get a smaller pipe to fit inside it.
    secure one end of the film and wind it around the pipe at an angle, and secure it to the other end.
    have a handle so you can raise lower the inserted pipe ... kind of like what ro and bob were talking about
    but use a tube as your long tank ...
    raising and lowering can be tricky because too much = over agitation, and too little = semi stand ...

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by Diapositivo View Post
    This insertion on eBay seems to sell Hewes 35mm reels for Jobo 1500 tanks, but if you read the fine print, it also says:

    They are available in various sizes for use with main film formats, but we are always pleased to quote on special made-to-order spirals to suit your particular needs

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hewes-Stee...-/290592304341

    Fabrizio
    I think that's just copied from Hewes' website, so you'd need to contact them, not that particular ebay seller. Now if only Hewes would make tanks to fit their long 35mm reels... or if they had made them a hair smaller to fit in the mid-size Nikor long reel tanks, grrrrr....

    Ah yes, go here:

    http://www.hewes.co.uk/

    Then click on "Products" then "Stainless Steel Spirals"

    Duncan

  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by jnanian View Post
    you could always get a long tank or a long tube and get a smaller pipe to fit inside it.
    secure one end of the film and wind it around the pipe at an angle, and secure it to the other end.
    have a handle so you can raise lower the inserted pipe ... kind of like what ro and bob were talking about
    but use a tube as your long tank ...
    raising and lowering can be tricky because too much = over agitation, and too little = semi stand ...
    Don't raise and lower. Just twist and turn.

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